Last days in Hawaii……..

A final snapshot from our trip to the beautiful archipelago of the Pacific.

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The lovely Ananas Comosus as it should be……in ice-cream

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693916‘Gilligan’s Island’.  Located off Oahu’s coast, Kaneohe Bay is where a small part the 1960’s sitcom was filmed.  The island is now home to the Institute for Marine Biology.906815845825842DSC_4596[1]Waikiki-sovenir-stands[1]

9088877421352.jpgNext stop, Japan…….x

‘A warrior is worthless unless he rises above others and stands strong in the midst of a storm’ – Hagakure: The book of the Samurai…….

Remembering Pearl Harbour………..

“A date which will live in infamy”…….President Franklin D. Roosevelt

The shipwrecks of Pearl Harbour have become the most iconic sites to ever lay upon a sea bed.  These incredibly somber yet deeply moving monuments of war, declared National Historic Landmarks, have become a place of healing, grace and contemplation and they are a very powerful national symbol for peace.

In the early hours of December 7th 1941, 353 Japanese planes from the Imperial Japanese Navy Air Service which included torpedo planes, bombers, dive bombers and fighters, launched a surprise attack against the US Naval Base at Pearl Harbour near Honolulu in Hawaii.

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This really was a simple yet brilliantly executed attack where bombs and bullets literally rained down upon a Naval Base ill prepared for such aggression.  During the attack, a 1,800 pound bomb hit the USS Arizona.  The massive amour piercing missile smashed through her deck coming to rest in the ammunition hold setting off more than one million pounds of gunpowder.  The Arizona exploded into a fireball and sank with most of her crew trapped below deck.  Torpedoes struck the battleship USS Oklahoma.  She rolled then slipped beneath the surface of the water taking with her 429 crew.

The attack on Pearl Harbour lasted less than two hours.  Although short by any standard of war, most of the damage was inflicted within the first 30 minutes.  Twenty American Naval vessels were destroyed with eight of those being massive battleships and more than 300 US planes were destroyed.  In the aftermath it was realised that every US battleship at Pearl Harbour – The USS Arizona, USS California, USS Maryland, USS Nevada, USS Oklahoma, USS Pennsylvania, USS Tennessee, USS Utah and USS West Virginia had sustained significant and near irreparable damage.  This attack however, did not destroy the American fleet.

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Inconceivably, 2,403 people were killed including civilians and 1,178 were injured.   1,177 service men were killed on board the USS Arizona alone and they remain entombed almost 76 years on.  This world shattering act of aggression altered the entire course of the history of the world forever and it has never been forgotten.

Following the attack, the United States of America immediately declared war on Japan with Australia following suit.

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The above images are photos taken from photographs on the walls of the museum………..

Sunday morning August 6th 1945, the ‘Enola Gay’, a United States B-29 bomber dropped an atomic bomb code named ‘Little Boy’ on Hiroshima.  Thousands died instantly.  ‘Bockscar’ dropped the second bomb ‘Fat Boy’ on Nagasaki August 9th.  There are no definite numbers on how many were killed in Japan but it is thought 80,000 people died instantly in Hiroshima with the death toll there eventually reaching 190,000 due to injuries and radiation poisoning.  70,000 were killed at Nagasaki and many thousands more were injured and listed as missing…………..

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The ships bell from the USS Arizona…….

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Accessible only by boat, the USS Arizona memorial has been built to straddle the sunken wreckage of this once mighty super-dreadnought.  When standing above the wreckage, you will see a small oil bubble rise to then rainbow itself upon the harbour waters.  This oil continues to leak from the Arizona herself.  On December 6th 1941 the Arizona had taken on a full load of fuel, almost 1.5 million gallons of oil in readiness for a scheduled trip.  During the attack that fuel fed the explosions and the fires which raged for days on end.  500,000 gallons of oil remain locked below the harbour and it will continue to slowly seep from the wreckage of that great war ship.

It is difficult to imagine that almost seventy six years on that a tiny droplet of oil still escapes the sunken hull to ascend and spread its quite reminder of such tragic loss.  It is extremely emotional to see this war grave and the oil which is referred to as ‘tears of the Arizona’ or ‘black tears’.

Although the Arizona and most of her crew were lost there is an undeniable bond between her and the remaining survivors.  In a remarkable stand for dignity and humanity, the US Navy has agreed the surviving crew members of this tragedy will be able to have their cremated remains interred in the ships wreckage.  It is thought when the last of the survivors is interred the leak will then be sealed.  There are just five remaining crew left, all in their 90’s, who saw action at Pearl Harbour on that fateful day……….

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These unit blocks were built to mark the flight path of the Japanese on the day Pearl Harbour was attacked.  At 0740 hours the first wave of Japanese fighter planes flew low through cloud toward Oahu.  They came over the mountain range and ‘through the gap of the unit blocks’ to attack the Naval Base.   Wave after wave of fighter plane, launched from four carriers stationed off the coast flew this path.  During the attack the Japanese lost 129 service men, 29 aircraft and 5 midget submarines.

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Being at this incredible memorial really does make you stop and think.  It requests of you to consider gratefulness and it will render your heart humble with quiet respect.  I often wonder what peace truly means and where does peace really exist in our tortured world.  Is peace dependent upon war for its existence?  I hope not, as I would like to think peace is of its own making but of this I can no longer be sure.

The human tragedy, horror and brutality of war will always spread itself over many generations but perhaps one day soon, there will be an awakening of the world and its leaders to finally give an accountability for armistice and peace………… xx

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Footnote:  Tuesday 18/04/2017 – A USS Arizona sailor, Retired Master Chief Petty Officer Raymond Haerry aged 94 years, who survived the attack on Pearl Harbour has passed away and been laid to rest inside the hull of the sunken battleship USS Arizona.  Mr Haerry, it is stated ‘decided he was going home, going home to the USS Arizona’…….

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Photo from KITV4 Island News Hawaii

Wham Spam thank you Ma’am and Aloha from Hawaii………

I had wanted to go to Hawaii as much as the Pope loves to break communal bread.  I was infatuated with Hawaii long before I actually visited and this was due to watching those wonderful Elvis Presley movies, three of which were set and filmed in Hawaii.  ‘Blue Hawaii’, ‘Paradise Hawaiian Style’ and ‘Girls, Girls, Girls’……..

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On a Saturday afternoon in the early 1970’s……….wait, what!  I know, hold on to your hats kids because that would make me how old!  I would venture to the Wintergarden Theatre in old my home town for the ‘Elvis Matinée’.   I loved the Wintergarden.  It was my escape from everything and those Saturday afternoons meant the absolute world to me.  An Elvis musical, a balcony seat, Jaffas and McMahons Sars were bliss to a young girl who lived in a south-east Queensland coal mining town.

Is it any wonder I was so mortified when the theatre was demolished in 1979 giving way to the construction of one of the most unattractive buildings ever conspired and lord, do not get me started on Cloudland!!   Isn’t it funny how you can fret with nostalgia for something lost so long ago……………

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‘The Wintergarden’ – Image courtesy of ‘The Fashion Archives’………

Anyway, back to wonderful Hawaii where there really is nothing more comforting than the smell of coconut oil, rum and frangipani leis.  Plus your drinks come with pretty paper parasols, cocktails are served in tiki heads and happy hour isn’t just limited to one hour.  Hawaii is also the perfect place to buy a ukulele and if that’s not enough, you are completely surrounded by ocean and the days are as sunny and bright and as warm as the locals.

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What I admire too is that Hawaiians have a deeply profound respect for their culture which dates back centuries and they have an unshakable connection to their land and to the ocean.  They are also full of that wonderful aloha spirit……

On Kuhoi Beach in Waikiki you will see an amazing 9 foot bronze sculpture honoring ‘Duke’.  Duke Kahanamoku is one of Hawaii’s greatest hero’s.  He was a true master of all water-sports including surfing, swimming and outrigger canoe paddling and he was a medal winning Olympian.  He is also known as the ‘father of modern surfing’ who spread the beautiful spirit and sport of surfing around the world.  Now that’s my kind of guy…….

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They also have a great saying in Hawaii which is, “Eddie would go” and for some, it is a heartfelt belief to live by.  What it simply means is ‘be brave, courageous and look out for others’ which I find to be a lovely sentiment of humanitarian beauty.  Eddie Aikau was a big surf rider and by big I mean the waves that exceeded 30 and 40 feet.  In an heroic yet tragic event, Eddie died whilst saving others and fittingly, there is an invitational big wave surf contest held each year in his honor called the ‘Quicksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau’.  And this event will not be held without of minimum of 20 foot waves!  Yeah!!

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Hawaii is a colourful, vibrant and energetic place and fascinatingly (or perhaps not) this island nation loves its Spam!   So popular is Spam that I actually believe Hawaiians may consider it a food group and you will also find Spam on the menu at Burger King (Hungry Jacks to us Aussies).  The good people of this American state consume more Spam than any other state or country in the world with just over 7 million cans being opened per year.  Do also bear in mind there are only 1.4 million people living on the islands!   And if you have a hankering for Spam sushi or Spam musubi then Hawaii is the place to be.

The Aloha State is also the big kahuna when it comes to pineapple production!!

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Paradise can get very busy and at times very touristy and you will find yourself shoulder to shoulder with holiday-makers and sight-seers but fear not.  There are many places to get away from it all and you will find these little quiet spots of tranquility.

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If you do want to get amongst it though and mix it with the locals and the tourists, then ‘Dukes’ could be the place for you.  I really like Dukes………a lot!  And you have to admire their motto which is ‘no shirt! no shoes! no problem!’ 🙂   From Dukes you can watch the ocean, see a sunset, admire the monolith that is Diamond Head and people watch.  You can chow down on some very good surf and turf, develop a taste for Kimo’s chocolate hula pie or just sip a very good Mai Tai from a tiki head and shimmy……..which I highly recommend you do.   They have live bands and a music collect from ABBA to the Velvet Underground so grab a seat at the bar and enjoy.  Dukes is located on Kalakaua Avenue Honolulu at the Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort.

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During the 1970’s there were some great TV shows produced and one of those was Hawaii Five-0.   It first screened in 1968 and in the opening scenes, Detective Steve McGarrett played by Jack Lord, is on a balcony of a unit block and guess what.  That iconic unit block is still standing, is still in use to this day and here it is……..

Right about now you probably have that memorable theme tune running through your head………..oh and its a cracker so you are most welcome 🙂

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Hawaii is fun and its casual.  A sarong and thongs – ‘rubbah slippahs’ (rubber slippers) – are perfectly acceptable attire and the place just makes you smile.  There are many parts of the islands still unspoiled by tourism and high-rise development and these areas of wilderness and beauty are synonymous with Hawaii.   Towering and ruggedly handsome mountain cliff tops, those massive thunderhead cloud formations, the active volcanoes glowing with lava and acres of lush green sacred landscape that run right to the edge of that glorious Pacific blue.

**While in Hawaii we visited the historic ‘Pearl Harbour Memorial Sites’.   I will write of that trip separately as I believe these solemn and dignified memorials deserve the respect and honor of their own blog post.

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Hawaii will enchant you with the islanders love of the ukulele, Spam, ‘Duke’, shaved ice, pidgin, outrigger canoes and surfing.  This tropical paradise may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I’d like to think perhaps most of us would rather be a good slug of rum in a Mai Tai than a cup of tea any day………..xx

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Part II – Pearl Harbour……..coming soon x

 

 

Dr Seuss, frozen snot and one more rail journey before leaving Alaska…….

Sitting humbly in the great shadows of Mt McKinley is Talkeetna, a rather quaint little settlement just over three hours north when on board the Denali Star from Anchorage.  This is another lovely Alaskan rail journey and I can’t imagine there to be a train I would not take somewhere……..

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The rhythm of train travel always feels good and on this trip the vastness of such poetically lonely but beautiful scenery just slips by your carriage window.  You will see moose, bear and untouched wilderness and you will also stop in at a couple of little historic townships along the way.   What I fondly remember too of this trip, was the beading of raindrops on the glass and of how pretty it was and of how those big clouded skies just seemed to go on forever.

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‘From there to here, and here to there, funny things are everywhere’…….Dr Seuss.   During this rail journey, and between the townships of Willow and Talkeetna, stands a gorgeously whimsical house.   This house is so odd but so wondrously eccentric that I just fell in love with it.  The house, after 15 years is still incomplete and it remains uninhabited, but it really looks as though Dr Seuss himself built it.  This remarkable and very narrow 185 foot tall house is right in the middle of the Alaskan wilderness.   How perfectly wonderful…….

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From the train, the house can be seen but it is difficult to photograph.  This stunning image was taken by ‘Nice Gaffs’………

Talkeetna is a great little place to stroll around plus it is the convergence point of three major glacial rivers.  From the centre of town, you can easily walk to the pebble and mud lined banks of these wild and raging torrents.   Large runs of salmon are known to inhabit these waters too and Talkeetna is also renowned as a great fishing destination.  Lucky is the angler who casts his line here.

And ever so interestingly, since 1977 the Mayor of Talkeetna has been a cat.  That is correct!  The honorary Mayor is a cat and in my book, that’s a pretty darn good choice of a public official.   Unopposed since her first birthday, ‘Stubbs’ the current Mayor, is a beautiful aging-gracefully ginger feline who has held office for the past 20 years and she does it seems, have nine lives.

Dear Stubbs has survived a serious mauling during a dog attack, survived an ‘assassination attempt’ – a gun and very stupid young men are never a good mix, survived an encounter with a truck and when younger poor Stubbs fell into a restaurant fryer.  Very thankfully, the fryer had been turned off and the fat was cooling at the time.

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Although Talkeetna is small you will find plenty to occupy your time.  Fossick around to discover quirky little stores, walking tracks and trails, very friendly and welcoming locals who are all up for a chat, a brewery, great places to eat and there is much history to learn given Talkeetna’s past roots are entrenched in gold, aviation and the railroad.

And the best food tip for what and where to eat when in Talkeetna!  Well that would be the spinach bread served out of the silver air-stream and trust me, it is far more appealing than it sounds.  This is a slab of toasted thick home-made spelt grain bread slathered with roasted garlic, chopped spinach and a mix of several cheeses all melted to  blissful perfection.   This simplistic dish would make any true food lover swoon……

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Our last days in Alaska were spent in simple appreciation.  This is such an easy place to ‘just be’ and the tranquil beauty will stop you in your tracks.  Alaska is a pretty casual place to hang out for a while too and it is also where checkered flannel has become a formal fashion wardrobe statement……..as well it should!  I’m quite partial to a bit of flannelette but in Alaska you will also need polar fleece and thermals, gloves, the odd scarf, a beanie and the warmest of coats and pants…..and a little fringe trimmed buckskin for good measure, which I happen to find very desirable on a man.

I  also picked up a couple of useful tips while in Alaska with the first being about socks.  Apparently in this climate, ‘cotton is rotten’ so you need to wear wool or a wool and synthetic blend of sock.  And the next tip.  Keep a hanky handy!   Your nose will run in Alaska and in the midst of the harshest and bleakest of winters you will be required to ‘break’ snot from your face as it will have frozen.  Oh come on, its not as bad as it sounds and there are far worse things you could be required to do in your lifetime!

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I really loved every moment of being in Alaska and I am surprised at the affection I developed for this beautiful American state.  I savor the heat and I have a passion for the ocean but due to some strange alchemy, I know in my heart I will return.   My homeland, a beautiful island continent, simply infatuates me but I am drawn to those soaring snowcapped alps, the moose and the harshly romanticised and remote landscape of Alaska regardless the frigid temperatures.  I know too that I could easily live in Alaska, for a while at least, and perhaps they will allow a peaceful settlement in the Dr Seuss house.  ‘You’re off to great places, today is your day, your mountain is waiting, so get on your way’……..Dr Seuss.

It was a wrench to leave but sometimes you need to leave somewhere in order to discover how much you really don’t want to.  I will always adore travelling as I am so welcoming of the idea of those great horizons unfurling before me, the guaranteed adventures along the way and the fact that most travel involves an amazing experience filled with beauty and wonderment, fascinating people, architecture and food.

Travel pushes you and it challenges you and it opens your mind and your heart to so much more.  Maybe too, it also allows one to find that somewhere special they could perhaps one day call home………

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Be bold.  Be brave.  Travel well……….xx

Next stop, Hawaii 🙂

What a Prince……. Alaska Part II

Early morning, still dark and while the inhabitants of Anchorage continued to blissfully slumber on, we left our warm bed and headed downtown to the train station.

And our destination!

Well we were headed to Seward………

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The journey from Anchorage to Seward is long yet so enjoyable.  This is slow travel.  Unhurried and timelessly beautiful and I’d like to think this is the way the world should always be viewed when travelling……….

We rocketed over bridges and over white water rivers.  We surged past ice blue glaciers and the rail tracks ran alongside grassy meadows full of wildflowers favored by shy moose and bear.  We wound our way below incredible ever-green covered mountains with their peaks occasionally hidden by mist and rain then lit by perfect sunlight and we travelled through those small maverick townships.

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For the most, the sky was impossibly blue and the water reflected the landscape like that of a mirror.  You cannot help but be affected by the beauty and magnitude of the landscape in Alaska because it is simply that spectacular.

Hours later, and greeted by heavy salt laden air, we arrived in Seward.  Seward is a city at the head of Resurrection Bay in the Kenai Peninsular and this coastal area is one of Alaska’s oldest communities.  The draw card however, is that Seward is the perfect launching pad from which to explore the Kenai Fjords National Park and Prince William Sound.

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Its funny how people remember significant events during their lifetime.  Tragedy is so often marked by a graphic memory of where you were and of what you were doing on a specific day which etches itself into your psyche for reasons best known only to you.   I  remember the oil spill from the Exon Valdez and of where I was on that fateful day in March 1989.  You could ask me what I had for dinner two nights ago and I would have little  recollection but the sorrow and heartbreak from me of this ecological disaster remains vivid.  I sometimes allow myself to be haunted by images or events and this was certainly one of those moments as the suffering and distress of the wildlife was so visually powerful.

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The above images are from National Geographic…….

It has been almost 28 years since the tragedy of the Exon Valdez where more than 11 million gallons of oil was spilt onto the fragile and beautiful ecosystem of Prince William Sound.  Even all these years later, this area is still yet to fully recover from that  man-made environmental catastrophe.  Unbelievably, the spill of oil stretched well over 1,000 miles and it is believed to have decimated up to 250,000 sea birds, 2,800 sea otters, 300 seals, 22 Orca from which the pods never recovered and 250 bald eagles.  The spill wiped out clam and muscle populations and it obliterated the salmon, halibut and herring populations by killing billions of eggs.   These numbers and the destruction done really is unfathomable!   Will we never learn!

Not long after leaving the boat harbour, we saw sea otters.  Happy and content little otters just floating about doing sea otter things.   These are such sweet little characters and what I loved was to learn that sea otters hold hands with each other while they sleep or rest so as not to drift apart and lose each other.  While watching these little otters I thought of someone dear and hoped she knew I was holding her hand so as not to drift too far away as the miles continued to separate us…………

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Out on the water and under a massive Alaskan sky of snow winter blue we saw impressively stunning glaciers.  There are well over 100 glaciers in and around the sound and they are all uniquely different with their wintery colouring.  These glaciers are actually massive walls of rivers of prehistoric ice that slowly and continually move their way down the mountains.

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While looking at one of the glaciers we heard the sharpest of cracks.  It sounded like a loud whip crack which was followed by a long low rumble not unlike thunder then we saw a large shard of ice fall from the glacier into the water which then became an ice berg.

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This entire area is an oceanic landscape of raw and wondrous beauty and I would have to say that for me, Alaska would be unrivaled with its national parks and reserves.  During our hours on the pristine waterways we saw cresting whales grey, minke and humpback, orca, puffins in their rookeries who are too cute for words and which reminded me of little British gentlemen, glaciers, seabirds, seals and otters.

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We marveled at the rugged coast line and the incredible floating ice fields.  It really was nothing short of spectacular and this is what you get when you allow wilderness to just be wilderness.

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With all that we saw, I was captivated by the orca.  They often broke the surface in their small family pods and lord, their skins, so distinctive in black and white were as glossy as silk.

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When you travel and appreciate what you have experienced you layer memories upon memories and these moments are to be treasured.  This is why you should always have mindful gratitude in all that you do especially when you travel as it brings such love and wonderment into your life.

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I will long remember this time spent out on that vast body of water as its beauty and the life force of it will forever resonate with me.  I’m so in love with Alaska in a way that I did not expect and trust me, that’s not such a bad feeling to have………..xx

‘North to Alaska, you go north the rush is on’…….

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Alaska.  The Last Frontier and a fabled kingdom which is unfathomably HUGE at almost 425  million acres.  It can be a wet, very wild and somewhat lonesome a place and they say the winds can howl for weeks on end but it is one of the most stunningly beautiful places on earth.

Isolated and extreme, with glaciers that can be larger than some States in America, Alaska is beauty and wilderness beyond measure.  I think what I am going to find frustratingly difficult for these posts about Alaska, is that I may not be able to find words deserving enough to describe this part of the world.  Perhaps, it is just too big for words…….

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Alaska is a haven for hikers and walkers as wilderness trails and tracks abound.  There are pristine lakes, glaciers, abundant wildlife, snow-capped mountains, curious and unconventional townships dotted throughout the landscape and the summer days stretch right on in to midnight.

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 This photo was taken at 10:58 pm.   Most folk in Alaska have very wisely invested in heavy-backed drapes…….

And ladies, if you are single and on the lookout for a man then Alaska is the place to be.  Men significantly outnumber the women so the odds of you finding someone is very, very good.  But just remember that isolation can sometimes encourage small eccentricities in some so although your odds are good, the goods could be a tad odd.  But from where I stand, originality and a truth beholding to oneself is something to be prized.

Some of our days were spent under a sky heavy with cloud and peppered with rain which gave off a serene, almost black and white appearance to the landscape.  Other days, the sky was the prettiest of wren blues you could ever imagine.  One major bonus of these big Alaskan skies is that star gazing here is better than anywhere else in the world……..

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Although we were in Alaska during their warmer months, they say the best time to visit is between May and September, it was cold and there was snow about although I do acknowledge it does get much, much colder!    I am an absolute frog when it comes to the cold.  I have been known to wear flannelette pj’s in summer so it was a highly unexpected turn that I fell in love with Alaska.  I was cold , yet I was filled with such warmth and comfort.

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Enjoying a Reindeer gyro…….oh deer!

I had a mission while in Alaska and it involved three things.  One: see a moose.  Two:  stay warm.  Three:  see a moose!

I had so dearly wanted to see a moose in the wild and how blessed were we in that we saw several.  I find moose to be the most endearing looking of creatures.  To my eye they appear gentle, unassuming, compliant and completely harmless.  Just like Bullwinkle in the cartoons 🙂  And just like the cartoons, the moose also have the most humorous and lovable expression.  Somehow though, I really don’t think they are the brightest of all creatures but when you look that adorable face, it doesn’t matter a dot.

These beguiling and gangly legged beasts roam about so serenely as if they don’t have a care in the world.   They browse on green shoots and tips of plants and trees and you can actually see where they have been as the grass is stomped flat and the bark upon the trees is scraped and marked by the larger moose with their magnificent velvety antlers.

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I for one, could not possibly ever imagine anyone wanting to hunt these lanky beasts as I don’t believe it would be much of a contest, let alone a fair one.  To me, it would be like hunting your neighbours sweet and docile pet milking cow named Clarabelle.

We were in a bar in Anchorage and I was chatting with a local Alaskan gent who I was sitting next to.  Over a glass of very good red wine the conversation turned to moose whereby he exclaimed  ‘Moose!  Why moose are one of the most aggressive and dangerous animals around these parts.  They are the worst animal to ever encounter in the wild’.  

Now I did note he forgot to mention polar, grizzly, brown and black bear as being dangerous but what would I know about danger as I am a lover and crusader of the shark and in particular The Great White, not to mention my fascination for free diving!

What a peach, just look at that face……….

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Photo courtesy ‘Natural Habitat Adventures Alaska’

Is this not one of the most joyful thing you have ever seen……..

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Photo courtesy ‘Visit Anchorage Alaska Visitors Bureau’

We stayed in Anchorage, a very neatly set out and rather quaint little city surrounded by the Chugach Mountains and the waters of the Cook Inlet.  This is a transient area but somehow, it doesn’t really feel that way.  No doubt though, Anchorage will be around forever even surviving through those constant seismic tremors of the underground quakes.   And those tremors are very real as frighteningly, Alaska can register an average of 1,000 earthquakes a month.

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Anchorage is a great base from which to explore Alaska as you have access to rail, very good roads and air and sea connections.  It may appear a relatively small city, given the size of Alaska, but it has all your essentials, the locals are very friendly and all you need to see and do is as close as a train or small plane trip away.

Something quite fascinating about Anchorage is that right in the heart of town you can salmon fishing at Ship Creek…….and almost all of the locals do.   We stood and watched, spellbound by the urban angling trend where runs of Chinook and Coho salmon are caught.  And some of those fish were huge!  There really are big and plentiful fish in those waters.

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Now as much as I have loved to eat salmon I really don’t think I could eat it every day and not tire of its oily taste but I could and would go salmon fishing in Ship Creek every day.

This gives a whole new meaning to the words ‘stuck in the mud’.  I guess sometimes, you just have to sit it out and wait for a helping hand to come along……..

And speaking of mud!  You will be well advised by signage and by the locals to stay off the mudflats.  Especially those of Cook Inlet.  These expanses of mud are formed from glacial silt and although appearing a place to walk and explore, they definitely are not.  These grey muddy flats have been likened to quicksand in that you will get stuck and stuck fast.  The mud acts as a suction and if alone, you will have very little chance to free yourself and you will be drowned by the incoming tide.  Having said that however, the mudflats are quite beautiful especially at low tide as patterns emerge in the mud and these flats are also a sanctuary for birdlife.  And all of this can be viewed from the safety of terrafirma.

There are an awful lot of clichés about Alaska and very happily, I can report they are all true.  Well, with the exception of Russia.  I didn’t see the country of Russia when visiting Wasilla.   You do however, have those big wild bearded mountain men in their buckskin, the ruggedly cantankerous gold prospectors and the extreme survivalist loners very happily eking out a self sufficient existence away from the confines of civilization and conformity.  There are those odd and very quirky little townships full of dark charm and characters, the crazy thrill seeking fishermen on the hunt for the Kings of the crab world and those ‘sourdough’ locals who have been in Alaska forever and who intend to keep on living that way.

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Alaska really is majestic and it is unpredictable and it is beauty at its incredible best.  It is a place that will render you breathless every single day such is the impact this land can have.  I think too, if given long enough the essence of this place would seep so deeply into your soul that you could not stand to be anywhere else and to live here would leave you forever happy.

Even those with the most jaded of hearts could fall in love with Alaska where time and distance becomes irrelevant simply because you are somewhere that is just so big……..xx

Part II coming soon.

Seattle Part II – sulking garlic and a little craft beer………

‘Just living is not enough…… one must have sunshine, freedom and a little flower’ – Hans Christian Anderson

One of the best things about Seattle is that it is a walkers’ city so pull on those comfy shoes and hit those cobblestone streets, brick paved alley-ways, paths and hills and enjoy.  We struck lovely weather whilst in Seattle, blue skies and sunshine which is a perfect combo for walking.  I was given a little tip too for venturing out and about which was ‘take a brolly’ as the weather in Seattle can be somewhat inclement.  Apparently, when it rains it rains……and then it will rain some more………

This city has a lot to offer but much of Seattle’s unique charm can be found in the underbelly of its quirky, often gentrified, waterfront and vibrant urban neighbourhoods with most so close to the city you can just stroll to them.   Here you will happen upon charming houses, parks and green spaces, sculptures, lovingly tended gardens and galleries and you will constantly catch glimpses of beautiful Puget Sound.

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Visit places like Belltown where it is all about the waterfront and for a little elegance try Capitol Hill and Ballard but if like me, you seek a colourful and passionate neighbourhood with a social conscience for activism then Fremont is the place to be (raise that fist and insert a rally cry at your leisure)…….YEAH!!

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I will always believe that the world can be changed by action, tolerance and humanity.  If you know something is not right then you have a moral obligation to stand up and do something about it!  And don’t just talk about it either.  Hollow words accomplish  nothing.  Actually DO something because change can only be achieved through your actions, not your opinions or comments.  And don’t turn to malevolence, hyperbole and anger either in order to fight your fight.  Leave that to other guys because that’s all they know.

Seattle and its neighbourhoods have an impressive food scene and every taste and budget is catered for.  You will find everything from street food, food trucks, casual cheap eats to high-end expensive restaurants.  Seafood is a big winner given it is so fresh and accessible but there is so much more on offer from the simple sandwich, vegan to duck fat dumplings to dry aged steaks and again, fabulous coffee abounds.

One of the big draw cards for Seattle is craft beer.   I think if you go to Seattle and don’t try a craft brew it would be like, I don’t know……. going to Seattle and not casting your gaze upon the Space Needle!   So line up those tasting paddles at any one of a number of very impressive micro-breweries, nano-breweries and craft beer houses and sit back and appreciate a darn good brewskie.

Now although I do enjoy a brew-pub, I tend to favour the nano-breweries.  These are the really small, independent operations which turn out impressive and high quality yet limited quantities of beer batches. These places are all about great industrial  spaces, people who love their product, milk crate seating and blackboard menus and when that batch of beer runs out, then it is pretty much gone for good.

These places have a ‘hip, kick back and chill vibe’ and we started to seek them out after one of our first encounters with one set up in a shipping container in South Carolina.  It was here we discovered ‘Bowens Island Oyster Stout’ and the joy of chocolate covered bacon.  And yes, bacon and dark chocolate is gold my friends 🙂   This oyster stout, made by Holy City Brewing, is my absolute favorite beer of all time.  I love it and I cannot buy it in Australia, nor anything remotely close to it and trust me, I have been working my way through some impressive stouts to find one.

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I am absolutely smitten with this defining image of the Seattle skyline.   The Space Needle…….

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Although this was built in 1962 for the World Fair I still think it is a super modern ‘Jetsons’ inspired symbol which I also happen to find super cool.  I love the colour scheme too – Galaxy Gold (which is actually tangerine), Orbital Olive and Re-entry Red.

I also found the architecture in Seattle stunningly beautiful.  I am a lover of all things art deco so some of the sculptured buildings, especially the Museum of Pop Culture, with its perfectly synchronised union between modern Avant-garde, deco and steel greatly appealed to me. I literally spent hours just marveling at the forms and shapes and designs.

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In all that I loved about Seattle, one of my favorite memories was of a roof top community garden.  One of the volunteers at the garden mentioned it has been referred to as the ‘secret garden’ as although the location is tourist central, right on top of Pike Place Market, the garden often gets little in the way of visitors.

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This wonderful urban oasis, manned by a dedicated team of volunteers, provides fresh veggies and fruit to ‘The Food Bank’ and the ‘Seniors Centre’.  Residents from the Seniors Centre also come to garden and to socialise which I think is really lovely.  With its raised garden beds of vegetables and flowers, fruit trees, container planting, random seating and its impressive views of Elliot Bay and the Seattle waterfront it is the perfect place to gain a little respite from the maddening crowds of the markets.

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I appreciate anything that can unite a community and this enchanting space, where moments of grace and kindness collide, will cure just about any affliction.   On good days, on difficult days and on all the days in between this garden would be a lovely place to spend a few moments each day.  Imagine more city community gardens and less car parks and concrete.  I certainly can.

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Some of my favourite moments in Seattle were those spent just quietly watching the sun wink off Elliot Bay and considering the beauty of the garden while deep in thought on that roof top space.  Life’s transition was taking place.  A dislocation between what had been and of what lay ahead in arduous and uncertain times all contemplated in the presence of small windows of hope.  The garden it seems, was symbolic in that it shows when you put love, energy and time into something it will grow, reveal itself and flourish.

Once settled in Australia, I made my own small oasis of solitude.  I have planted containers of flowers, herbs and veggies and it has become a little space to sit, write and to play a little scrabble every now and then.  Zoe loves this garden too and the sunshine cast upon it however my tip would be not to play scrabble with cheeky little cats as they tend to make up their own words.  I do allow it though, given she is so sweet……

Gardening is comparable to life in that you have no real control over it.   Currently here in New South Wales we are experiencing catastrophic bush fire conditions and merciless heat waves with temperatures at times reaching the high 40’s which is around 118 Fahrenheit.  Somehow though, my little garden is surviving the heat.  I have learnt some lessons gardening this way too such as my coriander will bolt straight to seed with little in the way of leaves to harvest and my garlic will sit sullenly in its pot with little growth however chilli plants absolutely thrive.

Sometimes perspective and hope are difficult to find, especially in the darkest of hours but when I think back on these terrible times I have for the most, a grateful heart.  As achingly painful as it has all been I have learnt so much but most importantly, I have learnt perseverance and to know that I have courage to never ever give up.  I have also learnt that you need to stay optimistic, focused and that you must always have hope.

Perhaps every now and then we all just need to find our small space in this big world and spend a little time in a garden, seek out some sunshine and a little flower or two to allow us to realise how truly fortunate we all really are.   And next stop, ‘The Last Frontier’,  Alaska…. xx

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Nothing says summer like glorious frangipani…….

 

 

Streptococcus, the slut and flying fish in Seattle…….

‘Hey baby I hear the blues a callin’……..

There is a smell about Seattle.  A really good smell.  A lovely salty floral smell which seems to continually drift from that remarkable stretch of Puget Sound.

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I was fascinated with this oceanic inlet where on wonderfully clear days, which happily ours were, you could see in the distance the majestic hulking beauty of the Olympic Mountain ranges.  Puget Sound is also the second largest estuary in the USA.  It is not only famous for its salmon runs of Humpback, Coho, Chinook, Sockeye and Dolly Varden but there are also Orcas, harbor seals, porpoise, sturgeons, cods, rays and an abundance of sea birds.  These beautiful waters, dotted with oyster and mussel farms, fishing boats, ferries and sail boats really is a refuge to an amazing marine population.

August through to September is apparently the preferred times to visit Seattle and I would guess, as with most places so far north, the winters would be somewhat challenging but I think anytime would be a perfect time to visit this lovely seaport city.

So how does one spend time in Seattle.  Well I spent mine roaming about, taking photographs, documenting my thoughts, watching the sound and just soaking up the city.  And did you know Bruce Lee’s grave is also in Seattle!  I didn’t until I arrived.

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One place you should include on your ‘to-do-list’ if you ever happen Seattle way and I hope you do, is Pike Place Market.  I really don’t think I would ever tire of this market place.  A blatantly touristy, noisy and crowed yet uniquely charming spot overlooking Elliot Bay.  It is full to bursting with fresh flowers, fresh seafood, artesian breads, full service butchers which means they will also break a bird down for you, fresh eggs including that of tiny quail, $400 per pound rare black truffles, cheeses, seasonal fruit and veg, arts and crafts, restaurants, buskers, baked goods, spices and teas.  Markets always seem to reveal great characters and Pike Place was no different with its mix of eccentric and no-bullshit-taking vendors.

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The sound of these markets is incredible.  The din of chatter, the yelling of the fishmongers, the slap of massive slabs of salmon onto stainless steel filleting tables, the clatter and clamor and commotion has all become part of this markets unique charm along with the famous flying fish.   It’s an old Seattle fishmonger tradition which goes a little like this – the customer selects the fish, the fishmonger then picks up the fish and throws it to another fishmonger for the fish to be weighed, dressed and wrapped.

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There are warning signs for ‘low flying fish’……..

Our most memorable meals of Seattle were at Pike Place.  Bowls of fresh clam chowder were consumed and we devoured fresh oysters by the dozen and drank local beer from big frozen glass mugs at Athenian, the unofficial watering hole for the market workers.  And the oysters were good.  Fresh, briny and smelling of the sea.  And just like a beautiful yet complex Japanese tea ceremony, there is also a bit of an art to consuming these little bivalves which involves a tiny fork, one chew to release the cream, savor then swallow.  Perfect!

Something I very happily discovered at these markets too was that unmistakable yet comforting smell of hot cinnamon donuts.  ‘Hot Cinnamon Sugar Baby Donuts’ to be precise which were pure little parcels of absolute joy and you can buy them by the dozen.   And I did!

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Now for some urban grunge.   And I don’t mean the somber subculture of guitar bands with their angst-filled lyrics and low strong riffs that came out of Seattle in the mid 80’s.  I’m talking about the Market Theatre Gum Wall!   

Not for the squeamish nor faint of heart this Jackson Pollack inspired wall is just south of ‘Rachel’, the markets big brass pig, and under Pike Place on Post Alley.  No doubt this is one the strepiest and germiest tourist attractions around, with some areas of this 15 feet high and 50 feet wide wall being several centimeters thick with chewy, but when in Rome……..

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I don’t think you will ever find this kind of tourist attraction in Singapore……..

Seattleites are also renown for their caffeine addiction with Starbucks having been founded here.  I do however, prefer to fondly remember Seattle for the bands it produced such as Pearl Jam and Nirvana and for the guitar legend Jimi Hendrix rather than Starbucks.  Sorry guys, its not me, its you with the coffee!   I just prefer the little independent hardcore coffee-nerd places and trust me, there are plenty of great ones around Seattle and its neighborhood communities.

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Anyway, the Starbucks at Pike Place isn’t the first of this chain but it is the oldest store.  And how’s this, I noticed on the stores logo’s that the curvaceous and lovely mermaid originally had her boobs on show – I really am all about the detail – however she appears to have undergone a little ‘make-under’ over the years.

The good folk of Seattle also seem to have quite a sense of humor.  Like the naming of their South Lake Union Trolley  – The SLUT.   It is very much an electric tram, part of the streetcar line, which runs from the South Lake Union neighborhood to Downtown Seattle.  This line may not take you anywhere really special but the souvenir t-shirts are quite fun.  Sense of amusement required though 🙂

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As I write this blog post, I am combing back through my notebooks looking at my thoughts jotted down while in Seattle and on this return trip home.  Most of it is grief stricken and uncertain.  I guess I was quite a newcomer to such deceit and no doubt I found it difficult to navigate those achingly treacherous days.  I may have written words down but really, there were no words……….

Perhaps though, and this is largely due to the fact much has revealed itself and in that slow unfurling, I now see this entire situation in a far better light.  I guess there is nothing more liberating than grabbing something by the balls, shaking it up, turning it on its head and seeing just what actually falls out.

What is certain though is from grief eventually comes joy of opportunity.  They say revenge is sweet but I believe a little happiness, a little more kindness and even a little more compassion to be far sweeter.  I know too where I have come from, where I have been and just like ‘The Slut’ I certainly know where I am headed but I still  ‘don’t know what to do with those tossed salads and scrambled eggs.  They’re callin again’……..

Part II of Seattle coming soon……..xx

Footnote:  Lyrics (in bold italics) from the Frasier theme tune, ‘Tossed salad and scrambled eggs’ by Bruce Miller.

 

John Wayne, my big girl pants and committing little murders…….

It is the start of a brand new year and with that comes the opportunity to welcome in hope, possibility and change.  At the beginning of each new year I tweak my blog site just ever so slightly and although I view my stories as a mere drop in the ocean, I will continue with them.   I am so very grateful for this open door with which to write.  May it never close…….

There is a lovely French saying, we are straying from the sheep,  which is what I have done in this post.  We are retracing the journey homeward from the USA and my previous blogs have been reflecting this time and although our next stop was intended to be Seattle Washington, necessity it seems, has petitioned this post be written instead.

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It is summer here in Australia.  The sun is shining hard, the flies are slow and the baking almost scorch drive heat has everyone seeking shade, iced water and the comfort of air-conditioning.  I had thought the writing of this post was being made more difficult by the heat but I know the soaring temperatures are not to blame.  It is the subject itself which is the problem as it draws one back to the juncture of those who seem starved of any moral code.

Occasionally I find when at a cross-roads with a profoundly troubling issue I sometimes ask myself this:  ‘what would John Wayne do!’    You may think this odd but those who know me will know of my love and deep respect (a shy code for obsession) with John Wayne and his movies so on the odd occasion, I seek the big man out.

And what would the Duke do if faced with a conundrum like this!  Well he would rear back and shout ‘fill your hands you son of a bitch’ then with reins clenched between his teeth and a Colt revolver in one hand and his signature Winchester rifle in the other, he would gallop down the oppressors on a magnificent chestnut quarter horse guns blazing for the fight of his life.

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I have probably seen True Grit one hundred times and I will no doubt see it one hundred more…..

I have no horse nor a Colt or rifle but when fighting for something I deeply believe in, and especially when I know a sense of justice has been lost, I will always and very faithfully do this.  I pull on my big girl pants and with dignity and quiet respect I go in and I fight.  When I commit to take something on I do not take it lightly.  I take it on with all my heart, I get my facts straight and I do it.

I am also very mindful when passionately fighting for a cause that I do it with civility and with my moral compass pointed in the right direction.  I will never be deliberately unkind, I do not follow and I have no need to recruit.  I will not purposefully destroy another or their reputation and nor do I gossip, spread gossip or defame.  I never raise a hateful voice but I do however, most certainly raise my game!

This is the truth of my character and these attributes have very often been commended by many.   Very sadly however, this cannot be said of all which brings me to the point of this post as I am forever struck by how some will start an idea of you through gossip, and this seems especially true when you are not in a position to defend.   I very strongly believe that all battles undertaken should be honorable and just but it seems some people are often afforded the upper-hand in a situation and unfairly so.  With the trump card of opportunity and bereft of the morality handbook, they spread poison and doubt around which seeps itself through others like a cruel and pitiless migraine.  Having been force fed this endless diet of falsehoods, others will then allow this idea of you to fester even though it is not the truth of who you and your family are and nor is it the truth of a situation!

And I can assure you this.  There is little worse than being robbed your defence and your voice especially when lost to a thousand miles of sea.  Initially, this very destructive smear campaign gained momentum as soon as we crossed the Georgia state line but it became far more ruinous, and dangerously so, once we left American soil and it has been allowed to continue!  These attacks have been the intent of pure malice and although the lies and the very hateful words have had no wings, they have still managed journeys of many long miles.

I am committed to the principle that we are all entitled to our own opinions and our own voice and I will always fight for that belief.  What we are not allowed to do however, is use that voice to make up vile hate speeches then purposefully spread those offensive stories around to deliberately undermine and destroy.  Gossip is negative and it is very, very nasty and it serves absolutely no purpose other than to support the unkindness’s of those lacking self-worth.

The insensitive and venomous attacks upon us and our reputations have been unrelenting and they have bought about times where it has been near impossible to keep going given the gravity of what has and continues to be said.  The countless secular injustices of what happened were certainly afforded a very quick burial however these terrible slurs and the disparaging insults cast continue with devastating impact.  Such is the gift of perspective, you do eventually come to understand this is not about you or your family at all…….and it never was!   What it is however, is a sad and very deep reflection of the insecurities of those who have initiated this and who are purposefully continuing with it.

The American playwright and cartoonist Jules Feiffer refers to these sorts of attacks as ‘committing little murders’ and ‘nothing more than an assassination attempt by a coward’.   Words hold great power to uplift and they can also discourage but gossiping and boastful smear campaigning does not make one powerful and nor does it anoint some in status or pious elitism.   Believing you have gained some prestigious importance is just the bullshit you are telling yourself as the word prestigious is actually derived from the Latin praestigiosis which means ‘cunning’,  ‘deception’ and ‘conjurors trick’ which is precisely what gossip of this kind, as with any, is intended to do.

To be on the receiving end of all this has been torturous as it is a cruel and hateful way to attack but it is also a very sly and manipulative way for the weak and those with little credibility to garner support from others.  No doubt this is why it still continues almost 19 months on but is this what we do to people now!  Is this how we allow ourselves to behave simply because our immense hostility toward someone is so great that we will do and say anything to destroy them!

I do appreciate these terrible times as being symbolic, archetypal if you like of a chapter where nothing more than resentment and jealousy laid many of the foundations for much of what happened.  I have spent a great deal of time gently pulling at tiny clusters of threads and these unraveling strands have revealed much.  Also during this time, I have had many moments in which to ponder the emotion of hate and primarily of the resentment which continues to be directed toward us as I just cannot fathom this emotion.  Hate is very ugly and it does not sit easily with me.  I am very grateful it is not an emotion I feel toward others which is no doubt why the gravity of the sustained animosity toward us continues to shock me.  I do recognise however that the resentment of us and primarily what has transpired has all come from a place where some are driven only by their great insecurities, envy, spite and the disappointment they hold in themselves and their lives.  They gossip and spread hurt and damage simply because they do not feel good about themselves and hateful gossipers will always attack those whom they envy.   If only people could dismantle those terrible gods of jealousy and loathing which they so desperately cling to……….

It has been difficult not to hold a grudge as I am, by my own admission, an unmovable rock of stubbornness at times.  I am not sure, as much as I have tried, that forgiveness is the simple answer though because the act of clemency must be honorable and it must be deeply heartfelt.  I understand too that forgiveness is the only grace by which to move forward with just as I acknowledge that to forgive them is not forgiving the acts of vengeance and great harm but it will be the kindest way in which to clean these very deepest of wounds.

Committing to forgiveness is far more difficult though because you can only forgive when you are ready to do so and when your great sorrow and despair has all but dissipated.  Perhaps one day their private guilt will manifest into the grief that surely awaits those who perversely love nothing more than to purposefully cause trouble for others.  In saying that though, I do wish for them to find a composed dignity which will allow them to cease behaving in such brutally cruel ways for the life you lead does not always have to be the only life you live.

And holy cats.  Although I absolutely abhor violence on any level please don’t ever think I did not want to punch this pair in their big fat old vaginas because I DID!   Very thankfully, my self respect and the slow movement of time has somewhat restored my faith in human nature again.  As much as it all so aggressively very nearly unbuttoned everything I believe in, I will not let these unkind acts drive my heart.  I will always let a flood of kindness and light pour in no matter how much someone sets their course to annihilate me and my little part of the world.  I have learned to absorb these graceless attacks and I have found a meaning and good in all that has transpired since so for that, I will graciously thank them.

I appreciate too that those inflicting this wrath of hatred are not strong.   Devoid of moral boundaries they cannot and do not champion women’s rights and nor do they support or defend women’s issues and causes.   They do not reflect the ideals of strong women for strong women encourage, they have empathy and they are positive, confident and inspiring individuals.  Strong women have their own voices and therefore do not need to parrot, they do not scheme nor coerce wedges between others and they do not perceive other women as competition.  Strong women also have no need to rally followers through untruths, they do not boast and nor do they bully.  They do not shame with hateful insults and they do not measure their worth by how unkind they can be to others.

And you won’t find the truly strong women curled up fetal position in the corner sucking their thumb while constantly criticising  what anyone else would be immensely  grateful for as they are far too compelled in getting back up on their feet.  No matter how low someone drives them down, all while putting a heel in just for good measure, those women still get back up and they face the world.  Their courage and dignity will not allow them to give up because they are the ones who fight with their lives for what they believe in and they do it with absolute conviction every single time.   Strong women can always confidently go it alone when others are left to forlornly suckle on the saggy old dried up tit of resentment and they keep up the fight even when all seems impossibly lost.

I guess what I am saying in this post is simply this.  Please do not be taken in by gossip, by these hateful stories and by those who keep spreading them.  Do not believe all that you are being told either because gossipers always rely solely on cowardice and the desperate carelessness of their stories.  Do not feed the ugly monster of sly rumormongering by listening or by partaking in it because gossip and hateful stories will only die when reaching the ear of a person wise enough not to listen!

These attacks have been like a raging infection in that they are difficult to contain and they continue to spread.  The most sorrowful part of all for me however, has been the absolute joy and delight they have derived from this determined and purposeful act to destroy another!

Everyone, no matter who they are, has the right to be respected and be treated with civility and no one will ever truly understand the impact of something until it happens to them.  When you do not suffer it you cannot acknowledge how it feels so just take a moment to think how you would feel if placed in our position.   Reflect on how very one-sided this has been, on who has been constantly spreading this hateful gossip and also remember what unkindness they have said to you about other people as this, by their own boastful admissions, ain’t their first rodeo baby!

As much as many have urged us to come out, speak out and attack back against what has been said we will not.  As deeply distressing and insensitive as these attacks have been we do not need to defend as the truth of the matter will vindicate itself and refuge is sought in the knowledge of this.  We also do not have egos nor actions to protect therefore we have not, did not and will not disparage or defame.  Vilely attacking others does not show strength or power but it does shine a very big spotlight to the fact some have lost all class, credibility and self-worth.

In the end though, the harsher reality is very simply this – those who are maliciously gossiping to you have also gossiped about you.   Do not believe for a moment, regardless who you are or how much you have suddenly gained their obsequious attention, that you have never been on the receiving end of their very cruel tongues.  And believe me, my very wise ear heard it all!

So what would John Wayne have done.  Well, I’d like to think he would have sat back in his saddle in that laconic way he had about his handsome self and said ‘baby sister, I was born game and I intend to go out that way’……… (Marshal Reuben J. ‘Rooster’ Cogburn, True Grit).

Well me too Duke because at any give moment we all have the power to say ‘this is not how my story ends’.  Stories are those deeper reaches of what it means to be human and everyone has a story be it of hope, courage, love, new beginnings, pain or loss.  Some stories you read, some are kept deeply to the heart and some ‘stories’ are unkindly spread but no one ever has the right to tell your story but you!

And this is not how my story ends.  I will always fight for what I believe in even if it means I will be left to stand alone.  When other voices remain silent through fear of being shunned and ostracised, through fear of them believing they will be next in line for the brunt of cruel attacks or simply because they think someone else will speak up they are allowing bullying, injustice and inhumanity to thrive but my voice will always remain strong.   I may not win every battle but at least I have had the courage to stand up for what I believe in and in the end, that’s all that truly matters.

Be brave, be inspiring, be compassionate and be kind always and next stop, the lovely city on Puget Sound…..xx

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Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway……..John Wayne

Chicago Part III with Lady O and a little Goodwill………

I really am a city girl and Chicago had me from the moment I set foot upon its sidewalks.  Dependent on where I am, I can tend to fall in love with places…….just a little.  It is a  love of the casual kind.  An unpretentious and easy-going bond which can develop for a place one has visited, lived or a place one just longs to be.

Chicago for me was all about those frequent busy streets, those soaring skyscrapers, the cherished anonymity one feels in the presence of many strangers and the wind gusting down the lanes.  It was the colors of the antiqued copper, the dark glass and the greys and silvers of the steel.  It was the sound of the traffic, the grilled shop fronts, the symbols of great imagination and the mathematics of the city blocks made into such perfect squares and rectangles.  Around every corner there seemed something interesting, curious and uniquely Chicagoesque and even under a grim sky it was always a stunningly beautiful city.

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Wherever I find myself in the world, I also like to take a little time out.  In these quiet moments I will literally walk for miles and miles and miles.  My walking brings a blur of happiness and a deeper appreciation of all things as I see parts of a city and its neighborhoods so often lost to the eyes of others.  Solitude is something I easily slip into and when alone, I seem to garner a little more appreciation of all things.  When you have gratitude, as we all should, your appreciation can become boundless.

I was also on a bit of a mission in my alone time too as I was on the look out for a Goodwill store.  And this was no ordinary Goodwill store either.  This was the largest store in Chicago.  In the back pocket of my jeans and neatly folded I had my trusted little paper map of the city, some money for my impending purchases (always optimistically hopeful) about my person and no doubt there was a little spring in my step.   I walked up Washington Boulevard lost in my thoughts when I stumbled upon this………….

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Ms Lady O’s Harpo studio.  The home of The Oprah Winfrey Show.  The studio was huge and took up almost an entire city block.  On the day I saw the studio production had ceased so there were no lines of audience members and there was little traffic on the boulevard.  Now Oprah may not be everyone’s cup of tea and truth be told, I would rather be someone’s good shot of rye whiskey than cup of tea, but you really do have to admire this woman and what she has achieved.  Born into poverty in Mississippi she rose to become a world renowned philanthropist, billionaire, talk show host and multimedia personality.  An impressive achievement in anyone’s book.

And the Goodwill store?  Well that was everything I ever hoped and dreamed it would be and although I was travelling light on this journey back to Australia, I still managed to fit in a couple of little pre-loved purchases into my port.  Happy days x

Although I ended up walking much further than I anticipated, I did eventually make it back to the hotel room and the next day we headed out together to the Lincoln Park Conservatory and Park District which is located near the shores of Lake Michigan.  The Conservatory is a beautiful Victorian Glasshouse built between 1890 and 1895.   Within its walls is an exotic, lush-green oasis of orchids, ponds, paths and rare and beautiful plants.  It really is a lovely and peaceful way to while away a few hours in Chicago.

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Next stop was The Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum.  A charming museum founded in 1857 and now one of Americas oldest scientific institutions.

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Walk through the 2,700 foot greenhouse which is home to over 1,000 butterflies.  Wander the nature trails and seek out the sculptures hidden amongst the tussocky grasslands and in particular look for the ‘Lost Bird Project’.  This is a bronze image depicting 5 birds of North America now lost forever to the tragedy of modern extinction.  Inside the museum brows through their impressive scientific collections and exhibits of eggs, birds, manuscripts, motion picture film, fossils, artifacts, reptiles, amphibians and photographs.

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A snap shot of our final days in Chicago……

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The odd thing about time is that it marches forth even if you are not ready to do so.  The memories of the trip back to Australia are still vivid and at times achingly raw yet one day I know they will begin to fade.  How much I will preserve of this time I do not know for no matter how much we try to contain some things, we really have no control over how it can contain us.

So goodbye Chicago and next stop, lovely Seattle where it was anything but sleepless……. xx