Japan Part II – Japan became a blur as we both became more heartsick…….

This has been a very difficult post to write.  It doesn’t require comment nor judgment and nor does this post necessitate analysis but it does ask the contemplation and quiet consideration of humility…………

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Two thirty am Japan time we received the call.  Gus had been rushed to the emergency vet and his prognosis was poor.

And then he was gone…….

I have no way of understanding why this happened or what possible purpose Gus’s passing served.  The moment was of crippling agony as it was brutally raw.

Our dear, beautiful and gentle Gus.  Lost.  There is no shame in saying we both cried our hearts out.  Sorrow at the loss of Gus and despair of Zoe’s terribly suffering.  Later that morning, and after very little sleep, I wrote down seven words.  A promise.  I always keep my word and my promises and of course I will honour this to the very end regardless of any consequence.  Always keep your word and especially keep it to the dead.

We grieved for our family so cruelly and forcibly removed from our care.  We grieved for the terrible impact this very poorly executed decision created and we grieved for the incomprehensibility of it all.  Emptiness can be so final and grief can be a strange and foreboding place to find oneself especially when the impact of it pushes you to the very edge.

I still cannot believe we lost Gus.  That he did not return home and that we also very nearly lost Zoe.   It has been almost two years and I still find his fur, his beautiful soft fur on the occasional piece of clothing and I do not want to wash it for fear of washing him away forever.

After he died, I drank until my head and my body hurt but it did not stop the ache of my heart.  I did not know when being forced against our very will to surrender our beautiful companions, a move so callously ordered of us, that we would never see Gus again.  I knew both of my companions would suffer terribly during that forced separation and I very clearly stated that fact to those who were driving this.  I am not too proud to say either that I begged for both my beautiful cats and for the smallest crumb of compassion yet this was so callously dismissed.  The entire circumstance of what happened is very untidy and very dirty and be assured, when a door is slammed in your face and you hear it bolt you also know things are about to get very, very nasty.

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Don’t think me oversentimental nor dare consider me a poster-child for victimhood in writing this post as the nefarious process used to order our removal, the clandestine execution of the QA and RTA, the gross administrative failings exposed, the duplicity and so very much more have been difficult and deeply painful paths to tread.   For almost 24 months I very gently pulled at clusters of tiny little threads.  Though often a challenging and laborious task, these seemingly innocuous little strands unraveled to reveal a great deal and their unfurling bestowed light to the very dark underbelly of all that occurred.

During these very long months, moments of uncertainty and a terrible bitter darkness crept in but thankfully now this steaming festering pile of feculence is no longer my burden to carry.  You will finally hear the truth and you will be given the opportunity to dissect between that and the force-fed bullshit and lies you have been constantly been told.  This candour too will come from those who hold positions to rightfully and legitimately do so and that is all that matters.

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The last photos taken of Gus and Zoe before their forced separation and the splintering of our family……

I am aware too that to be vindictive and abjectly mean is something that sets itself so deeply in some that it can never be changed.  These sorts of people need to harm and demean in order to bolster their own flailing self-esteem and because they hold such unhappiness within themselves and their lives.  I am also well aware of the little victory celebration held on the very day of our farewell with notable ‘toasts’ to our demise over large Margaritas and that the word Karma was uttered after Gus’s passing.  As deeply distressing as that all was, I accept that to endure this sort of cruelty does not deem you to respond in the same manner.  When the word Karma was stated I thought, how very vicious and heartless are some in that they have to bandy such cruelty around, but I understood that I could not hate those so sneeringly gleeful at Gus’s passing as my compassion for their displays of hate, shallow ignorance and their great senselessness needed forgiveness not retaliation.   Karma is in fact a beautiful Buddhist term which relates to fate, actions and intent.  What it simply means is that when you intentionally set a course to destroy another you then must be fully responsible and accountable for your actions.

I am also very proud of the fact we paid for all of our vet bills which ran into many thousands of dollars US and we paid to have Zoe returned home without begging for money (not that we would ever lower ourselves nor our standards to that) as some have done recently in order to have their pets returned to Australia.  Even though the organisation and its actions contributed to these massive accounts, to the death of Gus and to the suffering of Zoe they have stated they will not be responsible financially or otherwise.  Please note:  I am able to state this as it is a fact.  It is the truth. It is the actuality of what was stated by the Australian Defence Force.

I believe however, the most difficult of all to contend with during this entire time has been the breach of trust.  A trust placed in the ADF that they would uphold and follow all of the correct procedures and processes required for a QA and RTA, that the exercise be an ethically and lawfully managed action, that there would be transparency and accountability and that morally, no personal agendas would influence an outcome.  When this sort of betrayal is perpetrated it robs you of your innocence, your faith and it robs you of all hope.  It requires of you to re-evaluate all that you have believed in and it allows you to see how truly cruel and how truly deceitful humans, especially those in positions ‘power’ and organisations can be.  The entire process just seems now to come across as, I don’t know, almost schizophrenic in its implementation!

Despite all that has occurred, I very much intend to live my life with kindness, empathy and humanity for these values hold the greatest space in my heart.  And this is regardless how much the organisation, its hierarchy and the ‘very objectionable pussy posse’ (last four words copyrighted for an essay to be published) who the organisation recruited to do their very dirty work, tried to strip me of my very being.  The sadness of this terrible mess has been catastrophic but I will not allow myself or my life to be a reflection of those who so brutally drove, encouraged and supported this.  Perhaps though, you cannot get to somewhere good unless you have come from a deeply troubled and difficult place.  When you endure arduous times only then can you truly appreciate wonder and the good which comes from it.

There have been times where I have felt completely powerless.  Defeated by masterful stonewalling, evasion and lies but at no time did I give up.  I will never not raise my voice to injustice and wrongdoing for when you are silent, when you become a bystander or when you become a fence sitter you do nothing more than encourage persecution and I for one will never cower to injustice, to hatred, to hate speech or to oppression and I will certainly not cow down to the Australian Defence Force.  We are all truly capable of accomplishing the most extraordinary things when we are pushed to our very limit, so I most graciously acknowledge those involved in this heinous onslaught for pushing me to a point which has made me the strongest and most formidable person you are ever going to encounter.

Hate, defeat and despair are all part of the human existence just as love and kindness and compassion are and I know which I would rather have in my life.  Don’t ever allow anyone, no matter who they are nor how powerful they believe themselves or their organisation to be to rob you of your dignity, your spirit and your ultimate humanity.  No one has that right. No one!

You can either sit around feeling sorry for yourself or you can get up and do something about it.  We all have and will have to face terrible moments in our lives.  That is the very simple privilege of our human existence but it is how we choose to deal with them and those who have perpetrated these acts that ultimately counts.  Be the one to challenge when you know something is very very wrong, champion change, be inspiring and be the one to stand up and say ‘Not on my fucking watch you don’t!’  The choice is ultimately yours.

Stay graceful in your darkest of moments and do not let your grief become indulgent.  It will linger long after an event so do something constructive and good with the agony it brings.  Pain may surround you but you can transform its discomfort to become something powerful and very positive.   Hateful barriers and those who build them are meant to be knocked down so do not ever, ever give up.

Part III of Japan coming soon……..xx

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A little yen for Japan…….

Japan.  The land of the rising sun and such a peaceful place of immense beauty……..

Japan has a rich history and a culture which has formed over thousands of years yet the traditional and a modern Japan fit so elegantly together.   This beautiful land has a tranquil air of mystery to it and it appears to be a place where you could find yourself as a respectful outsider looking in on such loveliness.

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The people of Japan are hardworking yet delightfully courteous.  They have odd little mannerisms, they are welcoming and at times a little quirky, they have a quiet sense of composed beauty and their genteel politeness is utterly charming.   It seems too that good manners are paramount and these manners are taught at a very young age.   It makes for sweet yet respectfully dear children and who doesn’t appreciate that.

Traditional to hipster, this is modern Japan…….

Throughout Japan, and due much in part to Shintoism and the adopted Buddhism, there are thousands of beautiful public shrines and temples which you can respectfully wander through.   It is a very peaceful experience and at one temple midweek, we were so fortunate to witness the beauty of a hushed Shinto wedding ceremony.

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Japan has a troubled war history and due in part to this, they have denounced all military aggression for which I salute them.  As most reader know, I struggle with war.  Those bitter, unbearable and horrific conflicts where no one ever wins!   Japan was decimated after WWII – see previous post of Pearl Harbour – yet somehow, it rose from atomic ash to become one of the biggest economies in the world and one of the most beautiful places on earth.

There is war between the ones who say there is a war and the ones who say there isn’t…………Leonard Cohen

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This is also the country of 6 million vending machines offering anything from ice cream, hamburgers, floral arrangements, hot ‘frozen dinners’, deep fried hot chips……how do they do it! to fresh eggs and hot coffee in a can.   Ubiquitously Japanese, your can of coffee will come out steaming hot and tasting of caffeine and your ice-cream will be frozen to perfection.  You can buy almost anything out of these machines including undies and they are incredibly convenient as they are situated everywhere.  I am in no doubt to the world having vending machine envy.

Somehow, I think one could very happily live in Japan, if only for a year, yet barely scratch the surface of this enchanting land.

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The rail system in Japan is brilliant.  It really is a great way to get around and in itself, it is a tourist attraction.  Think the ‘Mag-Lev High Speed Bullet Train’ which has a maximum operating speed of 320 km/h and which reached 603 km/h in testing.

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Image courtesy – indulgy.com

The commuter rail system is slick, fast and very clean.  It can be slightly complex to navigate at first, which is half the fun, but there is always someone willing to help you out.  In our case, an elderly gentleman helped navigated us through the underground network of tunnels and twist and turns to walk us right to our platform.  Not only was he delightful company for this brief encounter, but his gesture was also very kind.

And the trains are punctual!   I would recommend purchasing the unlimited rail card as train travel really is, apart from walking, one of the best way to get around.

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You will eat well in Japan and often only for a few yen at noodle bars or Yakitori’s.  And who doesn’t love a noodle bar.   We tended toward the smaller bars with their dark spaces and narrow benches which faced the kitchen to look upon the huge steaming pots of broth and noodles.   And do slurp your noodles as it will not only enhance their delicate flavor but in Japan, this is also the correct and most polite way to eat them.

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Another food tradition are the Bento boxes.  You can travel like a Ninja as these boxes were initially designed to eat whilst in a nomadic state.  It is quite an appealing way to eat although I suspect if travelling on the bullet train, you may not have much time to truly savor one.

Something quite lovely to try while in Japan are Rakugan.  These are sweets, not too sweet, that have been hand shaped into animals and flowers and objects of beauty.  Some of them really are works of art and I often found them just too lovely to eat.  Naturally, they come beautifully packaged – as is everything in Japan – and they are often served at traditional tea ceremonies.   The thing with the Japanese is that it is all about the aesthetically pleasing aspect of presentation.   The attention to detail, the precision and the art of giving with love and joy appear paramount from the presentation of a simple tiny Rakugan to the most expensive and elaborate of gifts.

‘The Princess and the Pee!’……. aka, my fascination with Japanese toilets!  What can I say.  The lav’s in Japan are everything I had heard and dreamed them to be.  Elaborate, modern, high tech, sophisticated, sensory, heated seats, melodic – they really do play music to camouflage any ‘noise’ – and they make for very happy travellers.  Give me a futon and a Japanese toilet and I’m a happy girl…….. 🙂

Japan Part II coming soon………..xx

Last days in Hawaii……..

A final snapshot from our trip to the beautiful archipelago of the Pacific.

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The lovely Ananas Comosus as it should be……in ice-cream

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693916‘Gilligan’s Island’.  Located off Oahu’s coast, Kaneohe Bay is where a small part the 1960’s sitcom was filmed.  The island is now home to the Institute for Marine Biology.906815845825842DSC_4596[1]Waikiki-sovenir-stands[1]

9088877421352.jpgNext stop, Japan…….x

‘A warrior is worthless unless he rises above others and stands strong in the midst of a storm’ – Hagakure: The book of the Samurai…….

Remembering Pearl Harbour………..

“A date which will live in infamy”…….President Franklin D. Roosevelt

The shipwrecks of Pearl Harbour have become the most iconic sites to ever lay upon a sea bed.  These incredibly somber yet deeply moving monuments of war, declared National Historic Landmarks, have become a place of healing, grace and contemplation and they are a very powerful national symbol for peace.

In the early hours of December 7th 1941, 353 Japanese planes from the Imperial Japanese Navy Air Service which included torpedo planes, bombers, dive bombers and fighters, launched a surprise attack against the US Naval Base at Pearl Harbour near Honolulu in Hawaii.

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This really was a simple yet brilliantly executed attack where bombs and bullets literally rained down upon a Naval Base ill prepared for such aggression.  During the attack, a 1,800 pound bomb hit the USS Arizona.  The massive amour piercing missile smashed through her deck coming to rest in the ammunition hold setting off more than one million pounds of gunpowder.  The Arizona exploded into a fireball and sank with most of her crew trapped below deck.  Torpedoes struck the battleship USS Oklahoma.  She rolled then slipped beneath the surface of the water taking with her 429 crew.

The attack on Pearl Harbour lasted less than two hours.  Although short by any standard of war, most of the damage was inflicted within the first 30 minutes.  Twenty American Naval vessels were destroyed with eight of those being massive battleships and more than 300 US planes were destroyed.  In the aftermath it was realised that every US battleship at Pearl Harbour – The USS Arizona, USS California, USS Maryland, USS Nevada, USS Oklahoma, USS Pennsylvania, USS Tennessee, USS Utah and USS West Virginia had sustained significant and near irreparable damage.  This attack however, did not destroy the American fleet.

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Inconceivably, 2,403 people were killed including civilians and 1,178 were injured.   1,177 service men were killed on board the USS Arizona alone and they remain entombed almost 76 years on.  This world shattering act of aggression altered the entire course of the history of the world forever and it has never been forgotten.

Following the attack, the United States of America immediately declared war on Japan with Australia following suit.

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The above images are photos taken from photographs on the walls of the museum………..

Sunday morning August 6th 1945, the ‘Enola Gay’, a United States B-29 bomber dropped an atomic bomb code named ‘Little Boy’ on Hiroshima.  Thousands died instantly.  ‘Bockscar’ dropped the second bomb ‘Fat Boy’ on Nagasaki August 9th.  There are no definite numbers on how many were killed in Japan but it is thought 80,000 people died instantly in Hiroshima with the death toll there eventually reaching 190,000 due to injuries and radiation poisoning.  70,000 were killed at Nagasaki and many thousands more were injured and listed as missing…………..

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The ships bell from the USS Arizona…….

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Accessible only by boat, the USS Arizona memorial has been built to straddle the sunken wreckage of this once mighty super-dreadnought.  When standing above the wreckage, you will see a small oil bubble rise to then rainbow itself upon the harbour waters.  This oil continues to leak from the Arizona herself.  On December 6th 1941 the Arizona had taken on a full load of fuel, almost 1.5 million gallons of oil in readiness for a scheduled trip.  During the attack that fuel fed the explosions and the fires which raged for days on end.  500,000 gallons of oil remain locked below the harbour and it will continue to slowly seep from the wreckage of that great war ship.

It is difficult to imagine that almost seventy six years on that a tiny droplet of oil still escapes the sunken hull to ascend and spread its quite reminder of such tragic loss.  It is extremely emotional to see this war grave and the oil which is referred to as ‘tears of the Arizona’ or ‘black tears’.

Although the Arizona and most of her crew were lost there is an undeniable bond between her and the remaining survivors.  In a remarkable stand for dignity and humanity, the US Navy has agreed the surviving crew members of this tragedy will be able to have their cremated remains interred in the ships wreckage.  It is thought when the last of the survivors is interred the leak will then be sealed.  There are just five remaining crew left, all in their 90’s, who saw action at Pearl Harbour on that fateful day……….

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These unit blocks were built to mark the flight path of the Japanese on the day Pearl Harbour was attacked.  At 0740 hours the first wave of Japanese fighter planes flew low through cloud toward Oahu.  They came over the mountain range and ‘through the gap of the unit blocks’ to attack the Naval Base.   Wave after wave of fighter plane, launched from four carriers stationed off the coast flew this path.  During the attack the Japanese lost 129 service men, 29 aircraft and 5 midget submarines.

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Being at this incredible memorial really does make you stop and think.  It requests of you to consider gratefulness and it will render your heart humble with quiet respect.  I often wonder what peace truly means and where does peace really exist in our tortured world.  Is peace dependent upon war for its existence?  I hope not, as I would like to think peace is of its own making but of this I can no longer be sure.

The human tragedy, horror and brutality of war will always spread itself over many generations but perhaps one day soon, there will be an awakening of the world and its leaders to finally give an accountability for armistice and peace………… xx

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Footnote:  Tuesday 18/04/2017 – A USS Arizona sailor, Retired Master Chief Petty Officer Raymond Haerry aged 94 years, who survived the attack on Pearl Harbour has passed away and been laid to rest inside the hull of the sunken battleship USS Arizona.  Mr Haerry, it is stated ‘decided he was going home, going home to the USS Arizona’…….

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Photo from KITV4 Island News Hawaii

Wham Spam thank you Ma’am and Aloha from Hawaii………

I had wanted to go to Hawaii as much as the Pope loves to break communal bread.  I was infatuated with Hawaii long before I actually visited and this was due to watching those wonderful Elvis Presley movies, three of which were set and filmed in Hawaii.  ‘Blue Hawaii’, ‘Paradise Hawaiian Style’ and ‘Girls, Girls, Girls’……..

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On a Saturday afternoon in the early 1970’s……….wait, what!  I know, hold on to your hats kids because that would make me how old!  I would venture to the Wintergarden Theatre in old my home town for the ‘Elvis Matinée’.   I loved the Wintergarden.  It was my escape from everything and those Saturday afternoons meant the absolute world to me.  An Elvis musical, a balcony seat, Jaffas and McMahons Sars were bliss to a young girl who lived in a south-east Queensland coal mining town.

Is it any wonder I was so mortified when the theatre was demolished in 1979 giving way to the construction of one of the most unattractive buildings ever conspired and lord, do not get me started on Cloudland!!   Isn’t it funny how you can fret with nostalgia for something lost so long ago……………

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‘The Wintergarden’ – Image courtesy of ‘The Fashion Archives’………

Anyway, back to wonderful Hawaii where there really is nothing more comforting than the smell of coconut oil, rum and frangipani leis.  Plus your drinks come with pretty paper parasols, cocktails are served in tiki heads and happy hour isn’t just limited to one hour.  Hawaii is also the perfect place to buy a ukulele and if that’s not enough, you are completely surrounded by ocean and the days are as sunny and bright and as warm as the locals.

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What I admire too is that Hawaiians have a deeply profound respect for their culture which dates back centuries and they have an unshakable connection to their land and to the ocean.  They are also full of that wonderful aloha spirit……

On Kuhoi Beach in Waikiki you will see an amazing 9 foot bronze sculpture honoring ‘Duke’.  Duke Kahanamoku is one of Hawaii’s greatest hero’s.  He was a true master of all water-sports including surfing, swimming and outrigger canoe paddling and he was a medal winning Olympian.  He is also known as the ‘father of modern surfing’ who spread the beautiful spirit and sport of surfing around the world.  Now that’s my kind of guy…….

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They also have a great saying in Hawaii which is, “Eddie would go” and for some, it is a heartfelt belief to live by.  What it simply means is ‘be brave, courageous and look out for others’ which I find to be a lovely sentiment of humanitarian beauty.  Eddie Aikau was a big surf rider and by big I mean the waves that exceeded 30 and 40 feet.  In an heroic yet tragic event, Eddie died whilst saving others and fittingly, there is an invitational big wave surf contest held each year in his honor called the ‘Quicksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau’.  And this event will not be held without of minimum of 20 foot waves!  Yeah!!

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Hawaii is a colourful, vibrant and energetic place and fascinatingly (or perhaps not) this island nation loves its Spam!   So popular is Spam that I actually believe Hawaiians may consider it a food group and you will also find Spam on the menu at Burger King (Hungry Jacks to us Aussies).  The good people of this American state consume more Spam than any other state or country in the world with just over 7 million cans being opened per year.  Do also bear in mind there are only 1.4 million people living on the islands!   And if you have a hankering for Spam sushi or Spam musubi then Hawaii is the place to be.

The Aloha State is also the big kahuna when it comes to pineapple production!!

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Paradise can get very busy and at times very touristy and you will find yourself shoulder to shoulder with holiday-makers and sight-seers but fear not.  There are many places to get away from it all and you will find these little quiet spots of tranquility.

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If you do want to get amongst it though and mix it with the locals and the tourists, then ‘Dukes’ could be the place for you.  I really like Dukes………a lot!  And you have to admire their motto which is ‘no shirt! no shoes! no problem!’ 🙂   From Dukes you can watch the ocean, see a sunset, admire the monolith that is Diamond Head and people watch.  You can chow down on some very good surf and turf, develop a taste for Kimo’s chocolate hula pie or just sip a very good Mai Tai from a tiki head and shimmy……..which I highly recommend you do.   They have live bands and a music collect from ABBA to the Velvet Underground so grab a seat at the bar and enjoy.  Dukes is located on Kalakaua Avenue Honolulu at the Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort.

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During the 1970’s there were some great TV shows produced and one of those was Hawaii Five-0.   It first screened in 1968 and in the opening scenes, Detective Steve McGarrett played by Jack Lord, is on a balcony of a unit block and guess what.  That iconic unit block is still standing, is still in use to this day and here it is……..

Right about now you probably have that memorable theme tune running through your head………..oh and its a cracker so you are most welcome 🙂

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Hawaii is fun and its casual.  A sarong and thongs – ‘rubbah slippahs’ (rubber slippers) – are perfectly acceptable attire and the place just makes you smile.  There are many parts of the islands still unspoiled by tourism and high-rise development and these areas of wilderness and beauty are synonymous with Hawaii.   Towering and ruggedly handsome mountain cliff tops, those massive thunderhead cloud formations, the active volcanoes glowing with lava and acres of lush green sacred landscape that run right to the edge of that glorious Pacific blue.

**While in Hawaii we visited the historic ‘Pearl Harbour Memorial Sites’.   I will write of that trip separately as I believe these solemn and dignified memorials deserve the respect and honor of their own blog post.

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Hawaii will enchant you with the islanders love of the ukulele, Spam, ‘Duke’, shaved ice, pidgin, outrigger canoes and surfing.  This tropical paradise may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I’d like to think perhaps most of us would rather be a good slug of rum in a Mai Tai than a cup of tea any day………..xx

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Part II – Pearl Harbour……..coming soon x

 

 

Dr Seuss, frozen snot and one more rail journey before leaving Alaska…….

Sitting humbly in the great shadows of Mt McKinley is Talkeetna, a rather quaint little settlement just over three hours north when on board the Denali Star from Anchorage.  This is another lovely Alaskan rail journey and I can’t imagine there to be a train I would not take somewhere……..

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The rhythm of train travel always feels good and on this trip the vastness of such poetically lonely but beautiful scenery just slips by your carriage window.  You will see moose, bear and untouched wilderness and you will also stop in at a couple of little historic townships along the way.   What I fondly remember too of this trip, was the beading of raindrops on the glass and of how pretty it was and of how those big clouded skies just seemed to go on forever.

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‘From there to here, and here to there, funny things are everywhere’…….Dr Seuss.   During this rail journey, and between the townships of Willow and Talkeetna, stands a gorgeously whimsical house.   This house is so odd but so wondrously eccentric that I just fell in love with it.  The house, after 15 years is still incomplete and it remains uninhabited, but it really looks as though Dr Seuss himself built it.  This remarkable and very narrow 185 foot tall house is right in the middle of the Alaskan wilderness.   How perfectly wonderful…….

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From the train, the house can be seen but it is difficult to photograph.  This stunning image was taken by ‘Nice Gaffs’………

Talkeetna is a great little place to stroll around plus it is the convergence point of three major glacial rivers.  From the centre of town, you can easily walk to the pebble and mud lined banks of these wild and raging torrents.   Large runs of salmon are known to inhabit these waters too and Talkeetna is also renowned as a great fishing destination.  Lucky is the angler who casts his line here.

And ever so interestingly, since 1977 the Mayor of Talkeetna has been a cat.  That is correct!  The honorary Mayor is a cat and in my book, that’s a pretty darn good choice of a public official.   Unopposed since her first birthday, ‘Stubbs’ the current Mayor, is a beautiful aging-gracefully ginger feline who has held office for the past 20 years and she does it seems, have nine lives.

Dear Stubbs has survived a serious mauling during a dog attack, survived an ‘assassination attempt’ – a gun and very stupid young men are never a good mix, survived an encounter with a truck and when younger poor Stubbs fell into a restaurant fryer.  Very thankfully, the fryer had been turned off and the fat was cooling at the time.

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Although Talkeetna is small you will find plenty to occupy your time.  Fossick around to discover quirky little stores, walking tracks and trails, very friendly and welcoming locals who are all up for a chat, a brewery, great places to eat and there is much history to learn given Talkeetna’s past roots are entrenched in gold, aviation and the railroad.

And the best food tip for what and where to eat when in Talkeetna!  Well that would be the spinach bread served out of the silver air-stream and trust me, it is far more appealing than it sounds.  This is a slab of toasted thick home-made spelt grain bread slathered with roasted garlic, chopped spinach and a mix of several cheeses all melted to  blissful perfection.   This simplistic dish would make any true food lover swoon……

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Our last days in Alaska were spent in simple appreciation.  This is such an easy place to ‘just be’ and the tranquil beauty will stop you in your tracks.  Alaska is a pretty casual place to hang out for a while too and it is also where checkered flannel has become a formal fashion wardrobe statement……..as well it should!  I’m quite partial to a bit of flannelette but in Alaska you will also need polar fleece and thermals, gloves, the odd scarf, a beanie and the warmest of coats and pants…..and a little fringe trimmed buckskin for good measure, which I happen to find very desirable on a man.

I  also picked up a couple of useful tips while in Alaska with the first being about socks.  Apparently in this climate, ‘cotton is rotten’ so you need to wear wool or a wool and synthetic blend of sock.  And the next tip.  Keep a hanky handy!   Your nose will run in Alaska and in the midst of the harshest and bleakest of winters you will be required to ‘break’ snot from your face as it will have frozen.  Oh come on, its not as bad as it sounds and there are far worse things you could be required to do in your lifetime!

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I really loved every moment of being in Alaska and I am surprised at the affection I developed for this beautiful American state.  I savor the heat and I have a passion for the ocean but due to some strange alchemy, I know in my heart I will return.   My homeland, a beautiful island continent, simply infatuates me but I am drawn to those soaring snowcapped alps, the moose and the harshly romanticised and remote landscape of Alaska regardless the frigid temperatures.  I know too that I could easily live in Alaska, for a while at least, and perhaps they will allow a peaceful settlement in the Dr Seuss house.  ‘You’re off to great places, today is your day, your mountain is waiting, so get on your way’……..Dr Seuss.

It was a wrench to leave but sometimes you need to leave somewhere in order to discover how much you really don’t want to.  I will always adore travelling as I am so welcoming of the idea of those great horizons unfurling before me, the guaranteed adventures along the way and the fact that most travel involves an amazing experience filled with beauty and wonderment, fascinating people, architecture and food.

Travel pushes you and it challenges you and it opens your mind and your heart to so much more.  Maybe too, it also allows one to find that somewhere special they could perhaps one day call home………

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Be bold.  Be brave.  Travel well……….xx

Next stop, Hawaii 🙂

What a Prince……. Alaska Part II

Early morning, still dark and while the inhabitants of Anchorage continued to blissfully slumber on, we left our warm bed and headed downtown to the train station.

And our destination!

Well we were headed to Seward………

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The journey from Anchorage to Seward is long yet so enjoyable.  This is slow travel.  Unhurried and timelessly beautiful and I’d like to think this is the way the world should always be viewed when travelling……….

We rocketed over bridges and over white water rivers.  We surged past ice blue glaciers and the rail tracks ran alongside grassy meadows full of wildflowers favored by shy moose and bear.  We wound our way below incredible ever-green covered mountains with their peaks occasionally hidden by mist and rain then lit by perfect sunlight and we travelled through those small maverick townships.

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For the most, the sky was impossibly blue and the water reflected the landscape like that of a mirror.  You cannot help but be affected by the beauty and magnitude of the landscape in Alaska because it is simply that spectacular.

Hours later, and greeted by heavy salt laden air, we arrived in Seward.  Seward is a city at the head of Resurrection Bay in the Kenai Peninsular and this coastal area is one of Alaska’s oldest communities.  The draw card however, is that Seward is the perfect launching pad from which to explore the Kenai Fjords National Park and Prince William Sound.

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Its funny how people remember significant events during their lifetime.  Tragedy is so often marked by a graphic memory of where you were and of what you were doing on a specific day which etches itself into your psyche for reasons best known only to you.   I  remember the oil spill from the Exon Valdez and of where I was on that fateful day in March 1989.  You could ask me what I had for dinner two nights ago and I would have little  recollection but the sorrow and heartbreak from me of this ecological disaster remains vivid.  I sometimes allow myself to be haunted by images or events and this was certainly one of those moments as the suffering and distress of the wildlife was so visually powerful.

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The above images are from National Geographic…….

It has been almost 28 years since the tragedy of the Exon Valdez where more than 11 million gallons of oil was spilt onto the fragile and beautiful ecosystem of Prince William Sound.  Even all these years later, this area is still yet to fully recover from that  man-made environmental catastrophe.  Unbelievably, the spill of oil stretched well over 1,000 miles and it is believed to have decimated up to 250,000 sea birds, 2,800 sea otters, 300 seals, 22 Orca from which the pods never recovered and 250 bald eagles.  The spill wiped out clam and muscle populations and it obliterated the salmon, halibut and herring populations by killing billions of eggs.   These numbers and the destruction done really is unfathomable!   Will we never learn!

Not long after leaving the boat harbour, we saw sea otters.  Happy and content little otters just floating about doing sea otter things.   These are such sweet little characters and what I loved was to learn that sea otters hold hands with each other while they sleep or rest so as not to drift apart and lose each other.  While watching these little otters I thought of someone dear and hoped she knew I was holding her hand so as not to drift too far away as the miles continued to separate us…………

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Out on the water and under a massive Alaskan sky of snow winter blue we saw impressively stunning glaciers.  There are well over 100 glaciers in and around the sound and they are all uniquely different with their wintery colouring.  These glaciers are actually massive walls of rivers of prehistoric ice that slowly and continually move their way down the mountains.

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While looking at one of the glaciers we heard the sharpest of cracks.  It sounded like a loud whip crack which was followed by a long low rumble not unlike thunder then we saw a large shard of ice fall from the glacier into the water which then became an ice berg.

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This entire area is an oceanic landscape of raw and wondrous beauty and I would have to say that for me, Alaska would be unrivaled with its national parks and reserves.  During our hours on the pristine waterways we saw cresting whales grey, minke and humpback, orca, puffins in their rookeries who are too cute for words and which reminded me of little British gentlemen, glaciers, seabirds, seals and otters.

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We marveled at the rugged coast line and the incredible floating ice fields.  It really was nothing short of spectacular and this is what you get when you allow wilderness to just be wilderness.

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With all that we saw, I was captivated by the orca.  They often broke the surface in their small family pods and lord, their skins, so distinctive in black and white were as glossy as silk.

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When you travel and appreciate what you have experienced you layer memories upon memories and these moments are to be treasured.  This is why you should always have mindful gratitude in all that you do especially when you travel as it brings such love and wonderment into your life.

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I will long remember this time spent out on that vast body of water as its beauty and the life force of it will forever resonate with me.  I’m so in love with Alaska in a way that I did not expect and trust me, that’s not such a bad feeling to have………..xx

‘North to Alaska, you go north the rush is on’…….

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Alaska.  The Last Frontier and a fabled kingdom which is unfathomably HUGE at almost 425  million acres.  It can be a wet, very wild and somewhat lonesome a place and they say the winds can howl for weeks on end but it is one of the most stunningly beautiful places on earth.

Isolated and extreme, with glaciers that can be larger than some States in America, Alaska is beauty and wilderness beyond measure.  I think what I am going to find frustratingly difficult for these posts about Alaska, is that I may not be able to find words deserving enough to describe this part of the world.  Perhaps, it is just too big for words…….

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Alaska is a haven for hikers and walkers as wilderness trails and tracks abound.  There are pristine lakes, glaciers, abundant wildlife, snow-capped mountains, curious and unconventional townships dotted throughout the landscape and the summer days stretch right on in to midnight.

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 This photo was taken at 10:58 pm.   Most folk in Alaska have very wisely invested in heavy-backed drapes…….

And ladies, if you are single and on the lookout for a man then Alaska is the place to be.  Men significantly outnumber the women so the odds of you finding someone is very, very good.  But just remember that isolation can sometimes encourage small eccentricities in some so although your odds are good, the goods could be a tad odd.  But from where I stand, originality and a truth beholding to oneself is something to be prized.

Some of our days were spent under a sky heavy with cloud and peppered with rain which gave off a serene, almost black and white appearance to the landscape.  Other days, the sky was the prettiest of wren blues you could ever imagine.  One major bonus of these big Alaskan skies is that star gazing here is better than anywhere else in the world……..

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Although we were in Alaska during their warmer months, they say the best time to visit is between May and September, it was cold and there was snow about although I do acknowledge it does get much, much colder!    I am an absolute frog when it comes to the cold.  I have been known to wear flannelette pj’s in summer so it was a highly unexpected turn that I fell in love with Alaska.  I was cold , yet I was filled with such warmth and comfort.

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Enjoying a Reindeer gyro…….oh deer!

I had a mission while in Alaska and it involved three things.  One: see a moose.  Two:  stay warm.  Three:  see a moose!

I had so dearly wanted to see a moose in the wild and how blessed were we in that we saw several.  I find moose to be the most endearing looking of creatures.  To my eye they appear gentle, unassuming, compliant and completely harmless.  Just like Bullwinkle in the cartoons 🙂  And just like the cartoons, the moose also have the most humorous and lovable expression.  Somehow though, I really don’t think they are the brightest of all creatures but when you look that adorable face, it doesn’t matter a dot.

These beguiling and gangly legged beasts roam about so serenely as if they don’t have a care in the world.   They browse on green shoots and tips of plants and trees and you can actually see where they have been as the grass is stomped flat and the bark upon the trees is scraped and marked by the larger moose with their magnificent velvety antlers.

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I for one, could not possibly ever imagine anyone wanting to hunt these lanky beasts as I don’t believe it would be much of a contest, let alone a fair one.  To me, it would be like hunting your neighbours sweet and docile pet milking cow named Clarabelle.

We were in a bar in Anchorage and I was chatting with a local Alaskan gent who I was sitting next to.  Over a glass of very good red wine the conversation turned to moose whereby he exclaimed  ‘Moose!  Why moose are one of the most aggressive and dangerous animals around these parts.  They are the worst animal to ever encounter in the wild’.  

Now I did note he forgot to mention polar, grizzly, brown and black bear as being dangerous but what would I know about danger as I am a lover and crusader of the shark and in particular The Great White, not to mention my fascination for free diving!

What a peach, just look at that face……….

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Photo courtesy ‘Natural Habitat Adventures Alaska’

Is this not one of the most joyful thing you have ever seen……..

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Photo courtesy ‘Visit Anchorage Alaska Visitors Bureau’

We stayed in Anchorage, a very neatly set out and rather quaint little city surrounded by the Chugach Mountains and the waters of the Cook Inlet.  This is a transient area but somehow, it doesn’t really feel that way.  No doubt though, Anchorage will be around forever even surviving through those constant seismic tremors of the underground quakes.   And those tremors are very real as frighteningly, Alaska can register an average of 1,000 earthquakes a month.

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Anchorage is a great base from which to explore Alaska as you have access to rail, very good roads and air and sea connections.  It may appear a relatively small city, given the size of Alaska, but it has all your essentials, the locals are very friendly and all you need to see and do is as close as a train or small plane trip away.

Something quite fascinating about Anchorage is that right in the heart of town you can salmon fishing at Ship Creek…….and almost all of the locals do.   We stood and watched, spellbound by the urban angling trend where runs of Chinook and Coho salmon are caught.  And some of those fish were huge!  There really are big and plentiful fish in those waters.

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Now as much as I have loved to eat salmon I really don’t think I could eat it every day and not tire of its oily taste but I could and would go salmon fishing in Ship Creek every day.

This gives a whole new meaning to the words ‘stuck in the mud’.  I guess sometimes, you just have to sit it out and wait for a helping hand to come along……..

And speaking of mud!  You will be well advised by signage and by the locals to stay off the mudflats.  Especially those of Cook Inlet.  These expanses of mud are formed from glacial silt and although appearing a place to walk and explore, they definitely are not.  These grey muddy flats have been likened to quicksand in that you will get stuck and stuck fast.  The mud acts as a suction and if alone, you will have very little chance to free yourself and you will be drowned by the incoming tide.  Having said that however, the mudflats are quite beautiful especially at low tide as patterns emerge in the mud and these flats are also a sanctuary for birdlife.  And all of this can be viewed from the safety of terrafirma.

There are an awful lot of clichés about Alaska and very happily, I can report they are all true.  Well, with the exception of Russia.  I didn’t see the country of Russia when visiting Wasilla.   You do however, have those big wild bearded mountain men in their buckskin, the ruggedly cantankerous gold prospectors and the extreme survivalist loners very happily eking out a self sufficient existence away from the confines of civilization and conformity.  There are those odd and very quirky little townships full of dark charm and characters, the crazy thrill seeking fishermen on the hunt for the Kings of the crab world and those ‘sourdough’ locals who have been in Alaska forever and who intend to keep on living that way.

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Alaska really is majestic and it is unpredictable and it is beauty at its incredible best.  It is a place that will render you breathless every single day such is the impact this land can have.  I think too, if given long enough the essence of this place would seep so deeply into your soul that you could not stand to be anywhere else and to live here would leave you forever happy.

Even those with the most jaded of hearts could fall in love with Alaska where time and distance becomes irrelevant simply because you are somewhere that is just so big……..xx

Part II coming soon.

Seattle Part II – sulking garlic and a little craft beer………

‘Just living is not enough…… one must have sunshine, freedom and a little flower’ – Hans Christian Anderson

One of the best things about Seattle is that it is a walkers’ city so pull on those comfy shoes and hit those cobblestone streets, brick paved alley-ways, paths and hills and enjoy.  We struck lovely weather whilst in Seattle, blue skies and sunshine which is a perfect combo for walking.  I was given a little tip too for venturing out and about which was ‘take a brolly’ as the weather in Seattle can be somewhat inclement.  Apparently, when it rains it rains……and then it will rain some more………

This city has a lot to offer but much of Seattle’s unique charm can be found in the underbelly of its quirky, often gentrified, waterfront and vibrant urban neighbourhoods with most so close to the city you can just stroll to them.   Here you will happen upon charming houses, parks and green spaces, sculptures, lovingly tended gardens and galleries and you will constantly catch glimpses of beautiful Puget Sound.

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Visit places like Belltown where it is all about the waterfront and for a little elegance try Capitol Hill and Ballard but if like me, you seek a colourful and passionate neighbourhood with a social conscience for activism then Fremont is the place to be (raise that fist and insert a rally cry at your leisure)…….YEAH!!

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I will always believe that the world can be changed by action, tolerance and humanity.  If you know something is not right then you have a moral obligation to stand up and do something about it!  And don’t just talk about it either.  Hollow words accomplish  nothing.  Actually DO something because change can only be achieved through your actions, not your opinions or comments.  And don’t turn to malevolence, hyperbole and anger either in order to fight your fight.  Leave that to other guys because that’s all they know.

Seattle and its neighbourhoods have an impressive food scene and every taste and budget is catered for.  You will find everything from street food, food trucks, casual cheap eats to high-end expensive restaurants.  Seafood is a big winner given it is so fresh and accessible but there is so much more on offer from the simple sandwich, vegan to duck fat dumplings to dry aged steaks and again, fabulous coffee abounds.

One of the big draw cards for Seattle is craft beer.   I think if you go to Seattle and don’t try a craft brew it would be like, I don’t know……. going to Seattle and not casting your gaze upon the Space Needle!   So line up those tasting paddles at any one of a number of very impressive micro-breweries, nano-breweries and craft beer houses and sit back and appreciate a darn good brewskie.

Now although I do enjoy a brew-pub, I tend to favour the nano-breweries.  These are the really small, independent operations which turn out impressive and high quality yet limited quantities of beer batches. These places are all about great industrial  spaces, people who love their product, milk crate seating and blackboard menus and when that batch of beer runs out, then it is pretty much gone for good.

These places have a ‘hip, kick back and chill vibe’ and we started to seek them out after one of our first encounters with one set up in a shipping container in South Carolina.  It was here we discovered ‘Bowens Island Oyster Stout’ and the joy of chocolate covered bacon.  And yes, bacon and dark chocolate is gold my friends 🙂   This oyster stout, made by Holy City Brewing, is my absolute favorite beer of all time.  I love it and I cannot buy it in Australia, nor anything remotely close to it and trust me, I have been working my way through some impressive stouts to find one.

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I am absolutely smitten with this defining image of the Seattle skyline.   The Space Needle…….

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Although this was built in 1962 for the World Fair I still think it is a super modern ‘Jetsons’ inspired symbol which I also happen to find super cool.  I love the colour scheme too – Galaxy Gold (which is actually tangerine), Orbital Olive and Re-entry Red.

I also found the architecture in Seattle stunningly beautiful.  I am a lover of all things art deco so some of the sculptured buildings, especially the Museum of Pop Culture, with its perfectly synchronised union between modern Avant-garde, deco and steel greatly appealed to me. I literally spent hours just marveling at the forms and shapes and designs.

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In all that I loved about Seattle, one of my favorite memories was of a roof top community garden.  One of the volunteers at the garden mentioned it has been referred to as the ‘secret garden’ as although the location is tourist central, right on top of Pike Place Market, the garden often gets little in the way of visitors.

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This wonderful urban oasis, manned by a dedicated team of volunteers, provides fresh veggies and fruit to ‘The Food Bank’ and the ‘Seniors Centre’.  Residents from the Seniors Centre also come to garden and to socialise which I think is really lovely.  With its raised garden beds of vegetables and flowers, fruit trees, container planting, random seating and its impressive views of Elliot Bay and the Seattle waterfront it is the perfect place to gain a little respite from the maddening crowds of the markets.

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I appreciate anything that can unite a community and this enchanting space, where moments of grace and kindness collide, will cure just about any affliction.   On good days, on difficult days and on all the days in between this garden would be a lovely place to spend a few moments each day.  Imagine more city community gardens and less car parks and concrete.  I certainly can.

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Some of my favourite moments in Seattle were those spent just quietly watching the sun wink off Elliot Bay and considering the beauty of the garden while deep in thought on that roof top space.  Life’s transition was taking place.  A dislocation between what had been and of what lay ahead in arduous and uncertain times all contemplated in the presence of small windows of hope.  The garden it seems, was symbolic in that it shows when you put love, energy and time into something it will grow, reveal itself and flourish.

Once settled in Australia, I made my own small oasis of solitude.  I have planted containers of flowers, herbs and veggies and it has become a little space to sit, write and to play a little scrabble every now and then.  Zoe loves this garden too and the sunshine cast upon it however my tip would be not to play scrabble with cheeky little cats as they tend to make up their own words.  I do allow it though, given she is so sweet……

Gardening is comparable to life in that you have no real control over it.   Currently here in New South Wales we are experiencing catastrophic bush fire conditions and merciless heat waves with temperatures at times reaching the high 40’s which is around 118 Fahrenheit.  Somehow though, my little garden is surviving the heat.  I have learnt some lessons gardening this way too such as my coriander will bolt straight to seed with little in the way of leaves to harvest and my garlic will sit sullenly in its pot with little growth however chilli plants absolutely thrive.

Sometimes perspective and hope are difficult to find, especially in the darkest of hours but when I think back on these terrible times I have for the most, a grateful heart.  As achingly painful as it has all been I have learnt so much but most importantly, I have learnt perseverance and to know that I have courage to never ever give up.  I have also learnt that you need to stay optimistic, focused and that you must always have hope.

Perhaps every now and then we all just need to find our small space in this big world and spend a little time in a garden, seek out some sunshine and a little flower or two to allow us to realise how truly fortunate we all really are.   And next stop, ‘The Last Frontier’,  Alaska…. xx

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Nothing says summer like glorious frangipani…….

 

 

Streptococcus, the slut and flying fish in Seattle…….

‘Hey baby I hear the blues a callin’……..

There is a smell about Seattle.  A really good smell.  A lovely salty floral smell which seems to continually drift from that remarkable stretch of Puget Sound.

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I was fascinated with this oceanic inlet where on wonderfully clear days, which happily ours were, you could see in the distance the majestic hulking beauty of the Olympic Mountain ranges.  Puget Sound is also the second largest estuary in the USA.  It is not only famous for its salmon runs of Humpback, Coho, Chinook, Sockeye and Dolly Varden but there are also Orcas, harbor seals, porpoise, sturgeons, cods, rays and an abundance of sea birds.  These beautiful waters, dotted with oyster and mussel farms, fishing boats, ferries and sail boats really is a refuge to an amazing marine population.

August through to September is apparently the preferred times to visit Seattle and I would guess, as with most places so far north, the winters would be somewhat challenging but I think anytime would be a perfect time to visit this lovely seaport city.

So how does one spend time in Seattle.  Well I spent mine roaming about, taking photographs, documenting my thoughts, watching the sound and just soaking up the city.  And did you know Bruce Lee’s grave is also in Seattle!  I didn’t until I arrived.

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One place you should include on your ‘to-do-list’ if you ever happen Seattle way and I hope you do, is Pike Place Market.  I really don’t think I would ever tire of this market place.  A blatantly touristy, noisy and crowed yet uniquely charming spot overlooking Elliot Bay.  It is full to bursting with fresh flowers, fresh seafood, artesian breads, full service butchers which means they will also break a bird down for you, fresh eggs including that of tiny quail, $400 per pound rare black truffles, cheeses, seasonal fruit and veg, arts and crafts, restaurants, buskers, baked goods, spices and teas.  Markets always seem to reveal great characters and Pike Place was no different with its mix of eccentric and no-bullshit-taking vendors.

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The sound of these markets is incredible.  The din of chatter, the yelling of the fishmongers, the slap of massive slabs of salmon onto stainless steel filleting tables, the clatter and clamor and commotion has all become part of this markets unique charm along with the famous flying fish.   It’s an old Seattle fishmonger tradition which goes a little like this – the customer selects the fish, the fishmonger then picks up the fish and throws it to another fishmonger for the fish to be weighed, dressed and wrapped.

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There are warning signs for ‘low flying fish’……..

Our most memorable meals of Seattle were at Pike Place.  Bowls of fresh clam chowder were consumed and we devoured fresh oysters by the dozen and drank local beer from big frozen glass mugs at Athenian, the unofficial watering hole for the market workers.  And the oysters were good.  Fresh, briny and smelling of the sea.  And just like a beautiful yet complex Japanese tea ceremony, there is also a bit of an art to consuming these little bivalves which involves a tiny fork, one chew to release the cream, savor then swallow.  Perfect!

Something I very happily discovered at these markets too was that unmistakable yet comforting smell of hot cinnamon donuts.  ‘Hot Cinnamon Sugar Baby Donuts’ to be precise which were pure little parcels of absolute joy and you can buy them by the dozen.   And I did!

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Now for some urban grunge.   And I don’t mean the somber subculture of guitar bands with their angst-filled lyrics and low strong riffs that came out of Seattle in the mid 80’s.  I’m talking about the Market Theatre Gum Wall!   

Not for the squeamish nor faint of heart this Jackson Pollack inspired wall is just south of ‘Rachel’, the markets big brass pig, and under Pike Place on Post Alley.  No doubt this is one the strepiest and germiest tourist attractions around, with some areas of this 15 feet high and 50 feet wide wall being several centimeters thick with chewy, but when in Rome……..

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I don’t think you will ever find this kind of tourist attraction in Singapore……..

Seattleites are also renown for their caffeine addiction with Starbucks having been founded here.  I do however, prefer to fondly remember Seattle for the bands it produced such as Pearl Jam and Nirvana and for the guitar legend Jimi Hendrix rather than Starbucks.  Sorry guys, its not me, its you with the coffee!   I just prefer the little independent hardcore coffee-nerd places and trust me, there are plenty of great ones around Seattle and its neighborhood communities.

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Anyway, the Starbucks at Pike Place isn’t the first of this chain but it is the oldest store.  And how’s this, I noticed on the stores logo’s that the curvaceous and lovely mermaid originally had her boobs on show – I really am all about the detail – however she appears to have undergone a little ‘make-under’ over the years.

The good folk of Seattle also seem to have quite a sense of humor.  Like the naming of their South Lake Union Trolley  – The SLUT.   It is very much an electric tram, part of the streetcar line, which runs from the South Lake Union neighborhood to Downtown Seattle.  This line may not take you anywhere really special but the souvenir t-shirts are quite fun.  Sense of amusement required though 🙂

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As I write this blog post, I am combing back through my notebooks looking at my thoughts jotted down while in Seattle and on this return trip home.  Most of it is grief stricken and uncertain.  I guess I was quite a newcomer to such deceit and no doubt I found it difficult to navigate those achingly treacherous days.  I may have written words down but really, there were no words……….

Perhaps though, and this is largely due to the fact much has revealed itself and in that slow unfurling, I now see this entire situation in a far better light.  I guess there is nothing more liberating than grabbing something by the balls, shaking it up, turning it on its head and seeing just what actually falls out.

What is certain though is from grief eventually comes joy of opportunity.  They say revenge is sweet but I believe a little happiness, a little more kindness and even a little more compassion to be far sweeter.  I know too where I have come from, where I have been and just like ‘The Slut’ I certainly know where I am headed but I still  ‘don’t know what to do with those tossed salads and scrambled eggs.  They’re callin again’……..

Part II of Seattle coming soon……..xx

Footnote:  Lyrics (in bold italics) from the Frasier theme tune, ‘Tossed salad and scrambled eggs’ by Bruce Miller.