It is winter in South Australia and the air is sighing. Everything is moving at a much slower pace compared to Japan. It was a 17 hour trip door to door and somehow, I happily avoided jet lag. My first walk in Japan was in the rain so no doubt that helped. Nothing it seems, cures all that ails like a walk through warm summer showers while looking for puddles.

Summer in Japan is lovely. It was hair curling humidity, vintage cotton tops, shorts, summer dresses, sandals, pony tails, and my favorite attire of loose men’s trousers. Back in Adelaide it has been wool jumpers, soft scarves, heavy coats and the peaty smell of wood burners.

This trip was broken-up into three regions. Osaka, Kanazawa and Hiroshima, and being a city gal, I loved Osaka. The beauty and energy of the city, the vibrancy of modernism to the deeply beautiful traditionalism, the trendy retro neighbourhood’s, uber cool speakeasys, and a city so literate yet so equally whimsical.

Some things evoked for me a simple joy. I loved being able to buy fresh Agedashi Tofu, miso-glazed eggplant, Inarizushi, gyoza and sweet Japanese curries of carrots, potatoes and onions served over sticky rice, and matcha nama – a stunning combination of dairy free dark chocolate, creamy coconut milk dusted with matcha powder all in the same day while seeking out the riches Osaka holds.

These are a few of my favourite things…..

Amerikamura – Amemura to the locals, is a vibrant neighbourhood and the epi centre for Japanese youth culture. For over 40 years, this area has morphed into a melting pot of pure culture and is filled to bursting with vintage fashion, collectables, iconic street food, bars, cafes and the creatives of Japan. With glitter on every corner, this colourful vibe tugged at my heartstrings and it is where I made a few treasured finds including an old vintage t-shirt and two vintage Japanese kewpie dolls. For me, this is a must visit destination for its unapologetic rebelliousness, and people watching. Regardless of age, I highly recommend taking the time out to visit.

422 Bookcafe & Bar – I could have visited this sophisticated little gem everyday to sit amidst the quiet, their beautiful books and the stolen moments of inspiration….. okay, so I did visit regularly and I was also in iced coffee and beer heaven 🙂 Owned by the Sogensha publishing company which was founded in 1892, there was something quietly magical about this space which always made me wish to linger longer. Serene and minimalist and filled with gorgeous books this little place offers so much more. It is a tranquil and peaceful reset for all book lovers and passionate creatives alike. It is so very clear Sogensha publishing are proud and passionate about their beautiful shop and rightly so.

Nunobiki Herb Gardens & Ropeway – Boasting gorgeous seasonal flowers and herbs totaling well over 75,000, and being one of the largest gardens in Japan, is reason enough to visit. But add the gondolier ride that lifts you from the city to the mountains while treating you to panoramic views of Osaka Bay, the harbour, Kobe, and the Inland Sea makes this a must do while in Osaka. Gently spread across the slopes of the Rokko Mountain Range, the mountain-elevation herb gardens, the stunning rose garden, the waterfalls, established trees, and surrounding mountains make for a peaceful escape from the summer heat but would no doubt be equally stunning anytime of the year. Serenity for green thumbs, horticulturalists, gardeners, non gardeners, garden gnomes, clodhoppers, sons and daughters of the soil and lovers of beauty and nature alike.

Temples & Shrines – On streets, quiet lanes and in community courtyards, you will find so many beautiful historic temples, peaceful shrines and pagodas all offering a glimpse into Japan’s rich spiritual traditions. These buildings are so stunningly beautiful, they will make you weep and etiquette at these sights should be respected at all times. Photography is acceptable outdoors but generally banned inside main halls. Keep your voice low while in the grounds and dress modestly. Do not touch any religious objects and carry coins to use as a small offering. 5Yen are the lucky coins for shrines. Moments of complete Zen guaranteed.

Higashiyama District and Arashiyama Bamboo Forest – To visit both these areas, take the old rattler rail box. It is a stunning journey past flooded rice paddy fields, over small mountains ranges, through lush forests of ginko and alongside rapidly flowing streams. It is a wonderous and joyful trip.

Once you depart the train, you are in heaven as the ethereal beauty of old Kyoto, nestled along the lower slopes of Kyoto’s eastern mountains, offers a traditional experience of one of the best preserved historic districts of Japan. The narrow lanes, the gentle machiya – traditional wood townhouses, shops with their dainty rice paper windows, milk tea, blossoms, cobblestones, immense beauty at every turn, and tiny golden threads like gentle ghosts evoke a deeply poetic feeling of a bygone era.

The towering, graceful and slender bamboo stalks, the soft clacking as they bump together in the wind, walking trails, ponds and ancient shrines offer a serene and tranquil escape from the summer heat of Japan. These lush green forests will enchant travellers alike.

A perfect way to discover Japan is by rail – Travel by rail throughout Japan is wonderful. It is the perfect space to immerse yourself and an even more perfect way to people watch. JR, the Japanese Railways Group, would be without doubt, the best in the world as the trains are extremely clean, flawlessly punctual, efficient and extremely safe. Vending machines for tickets are readily available at stations and you can also book on-line as some trains will require a seat booking. It may seem a little complicated at first only because it is so unfamiliar but by the second trip, you will have it mastered.

The Shinkansen, the sleek and very sophisticated bullet train reaching speeds of up to 320k per hour, is great for travelling long distances. Booking you seat is highly recommended at least a couple of days prior to your planned travel. The Shinkansen offers you the ability to take your luggage with you to your next destination however as with airlines, there are bag limits so check the website for full specifications.

Overhead storage compartments for smaller hand luggage, your very spacious and comfortable seat, power outlets, small pull-out tables and extraordinarily clean restrooms in most carriages makes your journey that little bit more enjoyable. You may eat and drink (yes, alcohol) on the bullet train and it is a popular tradition to purchase an ekiben which is simply a station bento box. Paired with a cold beer, you have the perfect travel companions.

Rarely avalable now is the on-board cart service which is slowly being phased out but on one journey the most delightful cart came by so of course ‘when in Rome’. So sit back, relax and enjoy the pure luxury of the legendary Shinkansen.

Remember the song Silence is Golden! Well this applies to all trains, especially the bullet train. Your phone needs to be on silent and talking or making calls is frowned upon. Keep noise to minimum and always queue as the Japanese do. Waiting is an art form and behaviour matters deeply to the Japanese. Let everyone out of the carriage before you try to board and NOT giving up your seat to an elderly person is practically forbidden as well it should be…..and take all of your rubbish with you. Holy cats, these rules are so simple but so very often bastardised by visiting nations including Australia! There are also ‘women only carriages’ available on most rail networks.

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There is a slow rhythm to my meandering walks when I travel. I find a sense of myself I don’t want to lose and a peace which I cling to as though it will shatter. Oftentimes, the path can be evident, other times, not so much. Perhaps we don’t always need to know where we are going, we will get there when we are meant to.

I knew it would be hard to say goodbye to the wonderous streets of Osaka but there were adventures ahead and new streets to walk. I was so grateful for my time there as not everyone in the world gets to have experiences like this so I hold that in my heart. I have boundaries to my memories and to what I share and often, I will keep a moment or two just for me as I discover corners of myself I don’t know exist although at times, they are hardly corners, they are more akin to being sprawling wild gardens.

The sun is setting as I write this, and the next chapter is starting. I hope if you were out walking today, you found something wonderous. I hope you ate or drank something that nourished you and that your walk bought you peace and lifted your soul…..x