Tag: Asia

Japan Part II – The Osaka Diaries…..

On By oceangirl63In UncategorizedLeave a comment

It is winter in South Australia and the air is sighing. Everything is moving at a much slower pace compared to Japan. It was a 17 hour trip door to door and somehow, I happily avoided jet lag. My first walk in Japan was in the rain so no doubt that helped. Nothing it seems, cures all that ails like a walk through warm summer showers while looking for puddles.

Summer in Japan is lovely. It was hair curling humidity, vintage cotton tops, shorts, summer dresses, sandals, pony tails, and my favorite attire of loose men’s trousers. Back in Adelaide it has been wool jumpers, soft scarves, heavy coats and the peaty smell of wood burners.

This trip was broken-up into three regions. Osaka, Kanazawa and Hiroshima, and being a city gal, I loved Osaka. The beauty and energy of the city, the vibrancy of modernism to the deeply beautiful traditionalism, the trendy retro neighbourhood’s, uber cool speakeasys, and a city so literate yet so equally whimsical.

Some things evoked for me a simple joy. I loved being able to buy fresh Agedashi Tofu, miso-glazed eggplant, Inarizushi, gyoza and sweet Japanese curries of carrots, potatoes and onions served over sticky rice, and matcha nama – a stunning combination of dairy free dark chocolate, creamy coconut milk dusted with matcha powder all in the same day while seeking out the riches Osaka holds.

These are a few of my favourite things…..

Amerikamura – Amemura to the locals, is a vibrant neighbourhood and the epi centre for Japanese youth culture. For over 40 years, this area has morphed into a melting pot of pure culture and is filled to bursting with vintage fashion, collectables, iconic street food, bars, cafes and the creatives of Japan. With glitter on every corner, this colourful vibe tugged at my heartstrings and it is where I made a few treasured finds including an old vintage t-shirt and two vintage Japanese kewpie dolls. For me, this is a must visit destination for its unapologetic rebelliousness, and people watching. Regardless of age, I highly recommend taking the time out to visit.

422 Bookcafe & Bar – I could have visited this sophisticated little gem everyday to sit amidst the quiet, their beautiful books and the stolen moments of inspiration….. okay, so I did visit regularly and I was also in iced coffee and beer heaven 🙂 Owned by the Sogensha publishing company which was founded in 1892, there was something quietly magical about this space which always made me wish to linger longer. Serene and minimalist and filled with gorgeous books this little place offers so much more. It is a tranquil and peaceful reset for all book lovers and passionate creatives alike. It is so very clear Sogensha publishing are proud and passionate about their beautiful shop and rightly so.

Nunobiki Herb Gardens & Ropeway – Boasting gorgeous seasonal flowers and herbs totaling well over 75,000, and being one of the largest gardens in Japan, is reason enough to visit. But add the gondolier ride that lifts you from the city to the mountains while treating you to panoramic views of Osaka Bay, the harbour, Kobe, and the Inland Sea makes this a must do while in Osaka. Gently spread across the slopes of the Rokko Mountain Range, the mountain-elevation herb gardens, the stunning rose garden, the waterfalls, established trees, and surrounding mountains make for a peaceful escape from the summer heat but would no doubt be equally stunning anytime of the year. Serenity for green thumbs, horticulturalists, gardeners, non gardeners, garden gnomes, clodhoppers, sons and daughters of the soil and lovers of beauty and nature alike.

Temples & Shrines – On streets, quiet lanes and in community courtyards, you will find so many beautiful historic temples, peaceful shrines and pagodas all offering a glimpse into Japan’s rich spiritual traditions. These buildings are so stunningly beautiful, they will make you weep and etiquette at these sights should be respected at all times. Photography is acceptable outdoors but generally banned inside main halls. Keep your voice low while in the grounds and dress modestly. Do not touch any religious objects and carry coins to use as a small offering. 5Yen are the lucky coins for shrines. Moments of complete Zen guaranteed.

Higashiyama District and Arashiyama Bamboo Forest – To visit both these areas, take the old rattler rail box. It is a stunning journey past flooded rice paddy fields, over small mountains ranges, through lush forests of ginko and alongside rapidly flowing streams. It is a wonderous and joyful trip.

Once you depart the train, you are in heaven as the ethereal beauty of old Kyoto, nestled along the lower slopes of Kyoto’s eastern mountains, offers a traditional experience of one of the best preserved historic districts of Japan. The narrow lanes, the gentle machiya – traditional wood townhouses, shops with their dainty rice paper windows, milk tea, blossoms, cobblestones, immense beauty at every turn, and tiny golden threads like gentle ghosts evoke a deeply poetic feeling of a bygone era.

The towering, graceful and slender bamboo stalks, the soft clacking as they bump together in the wind, walking trails, ponds and ancient shrines offer a serene and tranquil escape from the summer heat of Japan. These lush green forests will enchant travellers alike.

A perfect way to discover Japan is by rail – Travel by rail throughout Japan is wonderful. It is the perfect space to immerse yourself and an even more perfect way to people watch. JR, the Japanese Railways Group, would be without doubt, the best in the world as the trains are extremely clean, flawlessly punctual, efficient and extremely safe. Vending machines for tickets are readily available at stations and you can also book on-line as some trains will require a seat booking. It may seem a little complicated at first only because it is so unfamiliar but by the second trip, you will have it mastered.

The Shinkansen, the sleek and very sophisticated bullet train reaching speeds of up to 320k per hour, is great for travelling long distances. Booking you seat is highly recommended at least a couple of days prior to your planned travel. The Shinkansen offers you the ability to take your luggage with you to your next destination however as with airlines, there are bag limits so check the website for full specifications.

Overhead storage compartments for smaller hand luggage, your very spacious and comfortable seat, power outlets, small pull-out tables and extraordinarily clean restrooms in most carriages makes your journey that little bit more enjoyable. You may eat and drink (yes, alcohol) on the bullet train and it is a popular tradition to purchase an ekiben which is simply a station bento box. Paired with a cold beer, you have the perfect travel companions.

Rarely avalable now is the on-board cart service which is slowly being phased out but on one journey the most delightful cart came by so of course ‘when in Rome’. So sit back, relax and enjoy the pure luxury of the legendary Shinkansen.

Remember the song Silence is Golden! Well this applies to all trains, especially the bullet train. Your phone needs to be on silent and talking or making calls is frowned upon. Keep noise to minimum and always queue as the Japanese do. Waiting is an art form and behaviour matters deeply to the Japanese. Let everyone out of the carriage before you try to board and NOT giving up your seat to an elderly person is practically forbidden as well it should be…..and take all of your rubbish with you. Holy cats, these rules are so simple but so very often bastardised by visiting nations including Australia! There are also ‘women only carriages’ available on most rail networks.

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There is a slow rhythm to my meandering walks when I travel. I find a sense of myself I don’t want to lose and a peace which I cling to as though it will shatter. Oftentimes, the path can be evident, other times, not so much. Perhaps we don’t always need to know where we are going, we will get there when we are meant to.

I knew it would be hard to say goodbye to the wonderous streets of Osaka but there were adventures ahead and new streets to walk. I was so grateful for my time there as not everyone in the world gets to have experiences like this so I hold that in my heart. I have boundaries to my memories and to what I share and often, I will keep a moment or two just for me as I discover corners of myself I don’t know exist although at times, they are hardly corners, they are more akin to being sprawling wild gardens.

The sun is setting as I write this, and the next chapter is starting. I hope if you were out walking today, you found something wonderous. I hope you ate or drank something that nourished you and that your walk bought you peace and lifted your soul…..x

Japan…..

On By oceangirl63In UncategorizedLeave a comment

It has been a frigid start to winter in South Australia. Summer was an absolute beast with scorching heat and little to no rain. Autumn came and passed with a mere shiver, a season of some discontent, however I emerged wings intact and with a readiness to leave the cold behind and head for a balmy Japanese summer.

As the plane was about to land, a thunderstorm filled with lashing rains rolled in making the city of Kansai gleam. Behind me was Australia, and ahead, the land of the rising sun. 17 hours door to door may seem long yet it is always astonishingly lovely to wake in another part of the world.

Each day, I made an effort to be up early and just appreciate the morning. Something I did not regret. An early morning street skulk of Japan does not call for words. It is made for soft light, silence, cool air, the rhythmic cawing of the resident crows and deep breaths.

Japan is a country that seems to ground me and warm my soul at the same time while nourishing me with hand-cut soba noodles in gently simmered broths. The foot falcon, my preferred mode of transport, certainly got a good workout as I was encapsulated by the magic of Japan all over again. The elegance and grace of the country, the absolute kindness of its people, its amazing food, the calm, their divine sake, back lanes, flooded rice fields of vivid green, wonderful teas, and so much more. It is truly such a beautiful country with every vista looking lovelier than the last…..if that were at all possible.

I purposefully missed Japan’s intrepid season of the cherry blossom, Sakura as it is known. A time when all of Japan and its visitors are gripped by a wild and often times crazy blossom fever. It is a spectacularly beautiful time but far too busy and crowded for me. By the time I arrived, the blossom had dried to a papery texture and were bleached of their stunning pink hue.

A spotlessly clean country, disciplined and friendly, Japan is rich with a fabled culture forged over thousands of years. As usual, I took one hundred thousand photos of just about everything. I promised myself I would take only one or two photos of a particular subject given my old dinosaur of a mobile is a Samsung 4 and I knew it would heave under the weight of so many photos. I broke my promise and nearly my phone which laboured badly toward the end of the trip.

There have been earthquakes and typhoons in Japan since arriving back in Australia. Sadly, it is one of the most earthquake prone places of the world. Somehow though, so many of its Shinto, Buddhist and other ancient temples remain standing during the violent jolting of the earth just as they remained stoic even after the blanket bombing of World War II. And does Japan have a deeply troubled past and confronting horrors of war. Of course, and some of it is so unbearable it is difficult to think about!

There has been a particular sweetness in arriving back in Australia this time however there was also a struggle knowing I had to surrender to the end of my time in Japan. I slowly unpacked my port, my memories and the trinkets I had gathered feeling all that I had experienced was quickly becoming distant. I was so deeply grateful for every moment but perhaps I wasn’t ready to leave Japan behind just yet.

As usual after a trip away, I go through small bouts of heart-panging withdrawals especially for those one-of-a-kind, unexpected experiences no one else has.  I can also be a stubborn hobgoblin in getting back into my routine however this afternoon, I spent considerable time in my over grown, weedy garden. The afternoon light was particularly lovely and golden and the cold air so very sharp.

It has been so rainy in South Australia while I have been away and the weeds have flourished with abandon. I pulled an absolute tonne of stinging nettles from one garden bed. Where they have come from is anyone’s guess! In folklore, stinging nettles ward off darkness and fear and will strengthen the will and trust me, it has taken much will to pull these prickly little buggars from the ground. So robust are they, they easily stung through my tough gardening gloves.

The lavender has been voracious too, almost swallowing up the old art deco steps leading to the front door.  I love the wildness of how it looks along with the gold leaves shed from my neighbours large oak tree which are strewn throughout the yard. But somehow today, it was those usual suspects, those tough rooted weeds of mallow, wood sorrel, and tough fusty grass mats which are in their element. To make up for it, bulbs I have been collecting and planting over the past three years have broken the soil and will soon flower and although their season is short, they will be oh so lovely.  

I always mourn the day I leave somewhere and although I am missing Japan and my morning Japanese rituals, the honeymoon is far from over. I have a love for Japan which has never wavered since the very first time I visited. I am filled with much gratitude for being there and for being able to travel. My love affair with their toilets also continued 🙂

Part II of Japan coming soon…….x

‘If you light a lantern for another, it will also brighten your own way’…..Nichiren

On By oceangirl63In Uncategorized14 Comments

The road to Hoi An, the beautifully charming UNESCO World Heritage-listed town, is well travelled.  Wrapped in exquisite layers of grace and tradition the town is essentially a living breathing museum with its whimsical mustard-yellow Japanese merchant houses, crumbling buildings, tea-houses, lanterns, Chinese temples, lovely Vietnamese tube houses and stunning French colonial buildings.

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With its cut-through canals and water-ways this lovely town, a labyrinth of alleyways and lanes, dates back to the 15th century and it was once a thriving Southeast Asian trading port.

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Centrally located in Hoi An, this graceful and very pretty little wooden bridge was constructed by the Japanese in the 1590’s.  Centuries may have passed yet little has changed on this gently arching span which has become a major tourist attraction for the town.

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Whilst in Hoi An, you can leave the traffic snarls behind as cars and motorbikes are banned from the central part of town.  There is a welcomed pace here and apart from the rickshaw and push-bikes, the good old foot falcon is the best mode of transport.

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On almost every corner, little charcoal burners heave under the weight of pork and chicken skewers.  The smell of cooking meat is amazing and their accompanying salads are to die for.  You know how sometimes you think ‘that was a pretty rough day.  I won’t make it worse by having salad for dinner’ .  Well that is not the case in Vietnam as the salads are just divine.  Fresh, light and incredibly moreish with their coriander, mint and Vietnamese basil.  Nom du du bo kho is a favorite with its green papaya, dried beef, roasted peanuts and fish sauce dressing.

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The local beer is cold and it is cheap and it best accompanies the inexpensive hawker food on offer and of course you always know what I always say about street food……..EAT IT!   So hunker down on those tiny plastic squat chairs and enjoy.

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This elegant town does have its touristy side such as the rustic and over-crowded market stalls.  Everything and anything is sold under low slung awnings but just go with the flow and enjoy it all for what it truly is.

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The lovely lanterns of Hoi An…….

I find lanterns breathtakingly romantic and in Hoi An, I fell in love with the way they adorn the cities’ alley-ways and lanes.  Traditionally hung on the full moon, it is said lanterns bring good luck to a home.  How could such serendipitous warm beauty not soften the coldest of hearts.

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There is often a good tired which comes from travel and I was, after my time in Hoi An, in sleeping swan pose before I knew it.  Unfortunately I was still on the bus at the time!   Headed for our next destination, I dozed on and off during the 3 hour long ride occasionally waking to watch for the comfort the acres and acres of green rice fields seemed to bring.  I watched for the locals with their flocks of runner ducks and buffalo and I waited for the motion of the bus to dip beside forests so I could see the tops of the tallest of trees and glimpse the ocean occasionally.

Sometimes my thoughts strayed to ‘home’, but where is home for me.  I have always believed it is that place where I live at that moment.  The place where I unpack my life and where I lay my head and where I can enjoy the serenity of just standing still.  It is where I am always willing to meet myself and where I often fail spectacularly especially on the journey of looking after myself.  It is a place where I always fall in love with something.  Where I am trying to live my best life by having less and having more – less friends, less possessions, more kindness, more compassion and to be more rich in the time I devote to something I love.  It is the luxury of a moment alone in the ocean, finding a book at my local library, finding a piece of sea glass along with a perfect coffee and the joy of a late season summers day.  Most of all, when fortunate enough, it is the place where I am able to hang my lantern…….xx

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