It has been a frigid start to winter in South Australia. Summer was an absolute beast with scorching heat and little to no rain. Autumn came and passed with a mere shiver, a season of some discontent, however I emerged with wings intact and a readiness to leave the cold behind and head for a balmy Japanese summer.

As the plane was about to land, a thunderstorm filled with lashing rains rolled in making the city of Kansai gleam. Behind me was Australia, and ahead, the land of the rising sun. 17 hours door to door may seem long yet it is always astonishingly lovely to wake in another part of the world.

Each day, I made an effort to be up early and just appreciate the morning. Something I did not regret. An early morning street skulk of Japan does not call for words. It is made for soft light, silence, cool air, the mournful cry of the resident crows and deep breaths.

Japan is a country that seems to ground me and warm my soul at the same time while nourishing me with hand-cut soba noodles in gently simmered broths. The foot falcon, my preferred mode of transport, certainly got a good workout as I was encapsulated by the magic of Japan all over again. The elegance and grace of the country, the absolute kindness of its people, its amazing food, the calm, the utter cleanliness, their divine sake, back lanes, flooded rice fields of vivid green, wonderful teas, and so much more. It is truly such a beautiful country with every vista looking lovelier than the last…..if that were at all possible.

I purposefully missed Japan’s intrepid season of the cherry blossom, Sakura as it is known. A time when all of Japan and its visitors are gripped by a wild and often times crazy blossom fever. It is a spectacularly beautiful time but far too busy and crowded for me. By the time I arrived, the blossom had dried to a papery texture and were bleached of their stunning pink hue.

It is a spotlessly clean country, disciplined, friendly and rich with a fabled culture forged over thousands of years. As usual, I took one hundred thousand photos of everything. I promised myself I would take only one or two photos of a particular subject given my old dinosaur of a mobile is a Samsung 4 and I knew it would heave under the weight of so many photos. I broke my promise and nearly my phone which laboured badly toward the end of the trip.

There have been earthquakes in Japan since arriving back in Australia. Sadly, it is one of the most earthquake prone places of the world. Somehow though, so many of its Shinto, Buddhist and other ancient temples remain standing during the violent jolting of the earth just as they remained stoic even after the blanket bombing of World War II. And does Japan have a deeply troubled past and confronting horrors of war. Of course, and some of it is so unbearable it is difficult to think about!

There has been a particular sweetness in arriving back in Australia this time however there was also a struggle knowing I had to surrender to the end of my time in Japan. I slowly unpacked my port, my memories and the trinkets I had gathered feeling all that I had experienced was quickly becoming distant. I was so grateful for every moment but perhaps I wasn’t ready to leave Japan behind just yet.

As usual after a trip away, I go through small bouts of heart-panging withdrawals especially for those one-of-a-kind, unexpected experiences no one else has.  I can also be a stubborn hobgoblin in getting back into my routine however this afternoon, I spent considerable time in my over grown, weedy garden. The afternoon light was particularly lovely and golden and the cold air so very sharp.

It has been so rainy in South Australia while I have been away and the weeds have flourished with abandon. I pulled an absolute tonne of stinging nettles from one garden bed. Where they have come from is anyone’s guess! In folklore, stinging nettles ward off darkness and fear and will strengthen the will and trust me, it has taken much will to pull these prickly little buggars from the ground for they easily stung through my tough gardening gloves.

The lavender has been voracious too, almost swallowing up the old art deco steps leading to the front door.  I love the wildness of how it looks along with the gold leaves shed from my neighbours large oak tree which are strewn throughout the yard. But somehow today, it was those usual suspects, those tough rooted weeds of mallow, wood sorrel, and tough fusty grass mats which are in their element. To make up for it, bulbs I have been collecting and planting over the past three years have broken the soil and will soon flower and although their season is short, they will be oh so lovely.  

I always mourn the day I leave somewhere and although I am missing Japan and my morning Japanese rituals, the honeymoon is far from over. I have a love for Japan which has never wavered since the very first time I visited. I am filled with much gratitude for being there and for being able to travel. My love affair with their toilets also continued 🙂

Part II of Japan coming soon…….x