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Beautiful Samoa, Part II…..

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Beautiful Samoa as it is branded, is deserving of its confident title.

Polynesian for sacred centre, ‘Sa’ meaning sacred and ‘Moa’ being centre, Samoa is as handsome, good natured and charming as its locals and as with any pacific island I have visited, its citizens are walking rays of gloriously warm sunshine. After all, life in Samoa is about happiness, family and enjoyment.

A rich natural beauty with pristine waters and beaches, dense rain forests, blow holes, breathtaking scenery, waterfalls and warm temperatures, Samoa is the perfect destination for a true cultural experience where the poetic language of Polynesian and English are spoken.

One of the best things about Samoa are its surrounding oceans which make for superb diving and snorkelling.   Reefs and lagoons border the islands, and it is here you will experience reef sharks, stingrays, turtles, hundreds of lively coral species, the sacred giant clam and over 1,000 fish species.

Samoa is also a popular surf destination with excellent conditions and without the usual overcrowding.  Swells sit anywhere from 2 to 15 feet on a good day and as many of the locations consist of sharp reef breaks, it is well worth donning your booties. Either way, a beautiful beach location and epic waves will always make for a perfect Samoan day 💙

Apia, the capital, is a busy hub with markets, the airport, eateries, the Museum, Aggie Grey’s (with its sweet little resident cat) and the Palolo Deep Marine Reserve.  Here you will find a diverse food scene with fresh plentiful seafood, fruit and vegetables and always something cold to drink. 

One of the best and cheapest way to get around is on the Samoan buses. These massive diesel beasts with their cheerful colours, dazzling bling and loud music are an experience not easily forgotten.  If the bus is full, no problem Bro.  Take a seat on someone’s lap or just squish right up and experience the true essence of the joyful Samoan people.

Our stay for the duration of the trip to Samoa was Saletoga Sands Resort and Spa.  The resort is lovely, its location is amazing, the staff are wonderful, the drinks are cold and the food for the most part is excellent.  And I promise. You will have the best prawn cocktail of your life here. 

The resort is hidden away among soaring coconut trees and a lush green tropical garden which all green thumbs will envy and is sheltered by a huge lagoon of clear, stunning ocean waters.  And holy cats! The resort has its own cats! Six in total named Sale, Toga, Sid, Little Girl, Sandy and Puss Puss.

Although the resort has an orientation toward family friendliness, singles and couples do not despair.  You will have a fabulous stay, especially if you bear in mind this is a remote location and that Samoa is still classed as a third world country. I guess it is all about perspective!  If you are a glass half empty, pessimist who constantly complains and criticises, there will be nowhere in the world that will ever suit you so just stay home.  

Wi-Fi reception throughout the islands is poor at best so I opted for being unplugged which caused a mix of joy and bitter sweetness.  Anxiety would occasionally creep in when not in touch with ‘the outside world’ and this was especially so when checking in on the dear cats however being present in the moment seemed to win out above all else.  I highly recommend unplugging every now and then. 

I became unwell in the weeks prior to heading to Samoa and became unwell again while there however, being confined to bed like a convalescing character in a Bronte novel, did not diminish my affection for Samoa and its people.  On the days I was able to get out and about, I did so with relish.

Samoa is a place to live with your hands open.  There are no expectations, just gratitude.   It is the smell of the sea, turquoise waters, beautiful happy people and for me, an embracing of quiet respite.

As much as I love to travel and explore, I love the feeling of coming home.  I am quite the hermit homebody and an introvert so at the end of the day, being home suits me perfectly.  I adore my own company and that of my cats but also the company of a select few whom I love and care deeply for.  I really have the best of both worlds.

Returning home, it was another bout of lingering jetlag, the sweetly wonderful company of the cats, and the mandarin tree with its boughs laden with ripe deep carroty coloured fruit was a cheery sight.  

The house, that crooked, cluttered, warm stone cottage is still a work in progress.  While I dream of coloured wallpaper, re-upholstering an antique settee in rich bold velvet, stone walls, paint tints, Art Deco and my quirky collectables, this is certainly not the home you will find on the pages of Australian House and Garden.  This is a home meant for the sharing of local Barossa Valley wines, cats, music, family and friends, wild gardens and indoor plants, and living with no aspiration for the contrived and impossibly dull….x

Beautiful Samoa, Part I…..

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Jetlag on this trip was a little exacting.  Normally I’m very good with hitting the ground running and the whole body-clock-time-adjustment-thingy however this trip, saw me up at 3:36am drafting a blog, painting my toenails (my feet and toes wildly swollen from jet flight) and shaving winter thatched legs! 

Departure was from Brisbane, Monday 10pm arriving in Apia, the capital of Samoa, 6:10am Tuesday morning.  It was straight to the resort, a good hour plus drive from the airport, then to bed where I slept for most of the day.  HIGHLY unusual for me!  Up for dinner and back to the room then in bed by 10pm and up at 3:36am bright eyed and bushy tailed.  Time waits for no man and neither it seems, does jetlag!

With nothing between me and the sea, I spent as many of my Samoa days as I could in the ocean and on the beach, drinking anything cold – Campari, ice and soda my latest hankering, and eating freshly harvested fruit.  Coming out of the ocean, I would remove my fins and mask and curl up on the warm sand like a seal pup.  The salt and humidity ringleted my short, usually sleek bob, my skin darkened and time was slow and easy.  Occasionally I slipped into the local villages with their colourful houses, paddocks of taro, rickety Fales, bright bromeliads, tiny orchids and beautiful ginger plants, and their affable slender dogs all while stealing quiet moments.

It rained for most of our 12 day stay.  Squalls hammered the coast and the resort, the surf pounded the reef and lagoon and the skies were razor grey.  When the severest of the storms passed, the majestic Frigate birds returned in threes circling the lagoon.  The weather however, could not dampen my enthusiasm for Samoa.

I explored, swam, dived, snorkelled and swam some more.  There is a lot I could give up but never my dips in the ocean.  I treasure hunted, read the pages of the Samoa Observer while eating piping hot salt laden chips and took one hundred and one photos of just about every single thing……… 

Beautiful Samoa, Part II coming soon……xx

Norfolk Island, Part II…..

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Eat, Drink, Love Norfolk…..❤

Norfolk island is impossibly green, vast and positively beautiful.  The absence of many duties and taxes normally paid on goods on the Australian mainland means almost everything is cheaper on Norfolk and currency is the Australian dollar.

The days of June were sunny and warm, an almost perfect time to visit.  It is the season of custard apples as big as a wrestler’s fist, badass show-winning brownies and the quintessential paddock to plate experience.

I always love to eat the local food especially when travelling.  It is ethical, super fresh, so good for the planet and even better for the community.  It really is all the small things which add up to make a big difference.   

Norfolk has an abundance of fresh colourful produce grown with love.  Seeing the fruit and veg on offer really does make you appreciate the remoteness of the island, the dirt, the rain, the sunshine…….along with the ample quantities of fresh fertiliser.

I drove around the island with my phone on mute.  Fell asleep on the deck staring up at the star filled night.  Spent time every day at the ocean.  Woke to thunderstorms rolling over the island and felt a remote solitude and an almost secret time warp that made me not want to leave.

The Olive:  A fab place to connect with community.  Saturday and Sunday mornings it is the hangout for the early risers, the late-night revellers and the hungover locals.   

I picked up some phrases when living in America and are so eccentrically wonderful, I love them to this day.  ‘Bless your heart’, ‘Slicker than cat shit on a linoleum floor’ (when said in a slow southern Georgian drawl) and one that I think of when I have a great dish, ‘tastes so good, it makes you wanna slap yo momma’.

That great momma slappin’ dish was a bowl of homemade dahl at The Olive. It really was a huge warm hug in a bowl.

Prinke:  I love this wonderful little space which is all about community, sustainability, the environment and kindness.  It absolutely hums with good vibes, is a great place to hang out with like-minded locals and after a rigorous daily testing of their coffee and vegan treats, I very highly recommend you go there. 

Rabbits Bikes:  Best cold brew coffee and huge brownie points for their award winning ‘badass brownies’ 😊

Other notables:  The Bowlo Bistro for great food, service and atmosphere.  Café Tempo for a great sandwich.  Salty Beer Garden is the perfect spot for live local music, great food, cold beers and catching up with the fab locals. SBG is a definite 10/10 experience.

Norfolk Island Brewing:  Sadly, this was an entirely forgettable experience!

Do:  The tag-along-tours, birdwatch, walk among the ruins and graveyards, seek out rainbows, talk to the locals, visit the Botanical Gardens, have a badass brownie, explore the island and the Burnt Pine township, make friends with a beautiful cow, turn off your phone, watch the sun rise and set and swim Emily Bay.

This was a little odd. I took the photo of the sign post then hopped back in the car. Only later, when looking back through the photos did I see the one on the right……spooky 👻

I always photograph cats when I am away on a trip and this was the only cat I saw during my entire time on Norfolk Island 😺. Lots of lovely friendly dogs, but no cats……

Finally, back home in South Australia after short delays and a long flight, I had a lovely sleep in my own bed with the cats then woke up to the sound of glorious rain on the roof.  Managed to squeeze in a little renovating while preparing for the latest trip which is a quick Queensland jaunt before heading to Samoa. 

The wonder of life isn’t in the achievements and big life events.  It is in those who have a seat at your table, the cat snuggles, a soul warming dahl, an impressive wave, a dear old friend you would never expect to run into just hours after landing back in SA, early mornings and to treat yourself well while not harming others. They are the moments.  They are the moments you long for.

So, it is with gratitude and an acute awareness of my privilege that I spent time on this impossibly beautiful island whose dark history, stunning beauty and irresistible pull has proffered much love and respect.  Go to Norfolk.  I promise, you won’t want to leave……x

Norfolk Island, Part I…..

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I am so fearfully grateful to be able to travel.  I feel privileged for this good fortune, especially in a world which is hurting so badly.  I know there are many things in this world I cannot change, but at least what I can do, is to not take anything for granted.    

I think it makes you a better and happier person when you are appreciative of what it is you have. At times I feel, in healthy amounts, guilty and undeserving of my own happiness, but perhaps that is because I am still just a work in progress…..

____________

Norfolk Island is a stunningly beautiful external Australian territory set in the bluest of pristine ocean waters and is protected by its own rock wall fortress.  The island is a haven for migrating birds and a resting place for long buried bones and secrets.  With it’s near perfect climate, rich and dark-brooding history, hiking trails, glorious beaches, serene slow pace and friendly locals, Norfolk is a salve to the soul.

Norfolk is also this Gidget’s dream.  Set against the backdrop of the island’s immense beauty, it is one of the most remote and unspoiled surfing destinations of the world.  A challenging break has been created by the impressive offshore reef where joy, beautiful barrels and imposing raw waves are continually served up.  And intriguingly, this amazing surf island is also home to one of the largest populations of tiger sharks in the world!

Our stay for the eight-day adventure was an Airbnb at the very point of Anson Bay.  The location was faultless with its quiet seclusion, short 10-minute drive to the centre of the Norfolk township and its unspoilt beauty.  Every afternoon we caught the sunset over the immense Pacific Ocean, watching the shapeshifting beauty of the clouds saturated in various hues of pink.  The sunsets gave way to the clearest of night skies, the islands remoteness unaffected by the modern worlds’ light pollution.  Later each night, the massive thunderstorms rolled in bringing hammering rains upon the tin roof.

Our lovely Airbnb, King Tide House……

Every morning, I woke early to the sounds of the ocean and to the calls of the resident family of Masked Boobys, their simple nest, a dimple on the flat grass of the headland.  Norfolk is a paradise for bird watchers as its isolation means many birds are not found anywhere else.  The terrain and the forests of the island are ideal for seabirds and forest dwellers which include the graceful terns, shearwaters, kingfishers, parrots, whistlers and robins.

No traffic lights, two roundabouts and speed limits of 40 and 50k makes for enjoyable driving.  The only thing to worry about is the feral poultry population, which far outnumber the human populace and multiplying since the first settlement, and your requirement that you must give way to the free roaming, sweet-faced gentle cow herds.   

Burnt Pine, designated by cattle grids is the islands hamlet which you pass through to get from one side of the island to the other.  The township has everything you need, and a blog post highlighting Burnt Pine will follow.  The small airport is also located close to town and Qantas has six return flights per week with three departing Sydney and three from Brisbane.

Norfolk has a fascinating, deeply complex and multi-layered history from the World Heritage listed convict sites to the 14th century Polynesian seafarers, mutineers, penal settlements, James Cook and the Pitcairn’s.  Long hidden buttons, wells, broken ceramic pieces, bones, glass and other artifacts are still being uncovered today from their catacombs of sand and rubble.  The cemetery and Murderers Mound, an unconsecrated mass grave, are some of the oldest burial grounds in Australia and the cemetery is still in use today where the bodies of descendants of the Bounty mutineers, executed convicts, penal colony members and whalers have been laid to rest.  

Of course, as with any trip, I took far too many photos.  I would drive 100 metres and stop, drive another 100 metres and stop again.  It was difficult not to take a photo with everything so damn stunning from a simple door to a decaying longboat to a cow and her calf to the ocean.

Part two following soon…..x

Footnote: Gidget – ‘girl midget’ or small female board rider.

Time to spill the tea…..

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Tis certainly ‘baby, its cold outside’ weather in South Australia at present.  It is the weather of comfort, and the need for comfort is to hunker down in the front room with a warm fire in the company of the dear cats.  The house is almost silent save the purist stance to the jazz, blues and soul channel softly playing in the background, the tapping of laptop keys and the gentle snoring of old TomTom who is curled up beside me.   It is a brief and enjoyable lull in what has again been, a very full week. 

The past summer was an over exposed heatwave which lasted until May.  There was no rain for a good 5 months then a luscious series of downpours hit just as we were about to board a flight to Norfolk Island…….which is a perfect segue for this post.

I am seriously going to catch my blog up!  Somehow, I’ve convinced myself I am not behind, but who am I kidding, of course I am.  Sometimes I tend to just fall off the edge of the world.  I miss writing my blog and I love the routine of it because believe it or not, I find a very odd amount of freedom and joy in routine. 

And how quickly life moves along.  Already half of this year has passed.  There is so very much to catch up on including a great deal of travel, renovations, lists, festivals, worries that keep me awake at all hours, life ruining gin 😊, clearing out years of accumulated items which have amassed like nesting spiders, transforming the yard and turning 60 last year (although I feel far too youthful and immortal to concern myself with ageism). 

I’ll restart the blog with our most recent trip which was to the windswept, astoundingly beautiful and impossibly green Norfolk Island then work my way to back.  Of course, I take too many photos when travelling with my usual, ‘one hundred thousand photos of absolutely everything’ but one has to start somewhere.

We have now had the shortest day of the year.  Soon the light will slowly begin to creep back in so summer lovers do not fear.  That ballsy season of heat, longer days and flies will soon come around again to bear its apocalyptic teeth but for now, there is just simple splendor in the cold and wet of a South Australian winter.  

So, pull up a chair while I spill the tea.  All are welcome at my table……x

Going cold tofu…….

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I recently wrote about some changes which have taken place in my life and one, a major one, was becoming a vegan.

My journey to veganism began when during July 2021, I saw a trailer load of newly born calves. Barely a week old, they were in a trailer being towed behind a 4×4 on the highway. At the time, it was winter in South Australia and this particular winter was bleak! Below zero temperatures, bitterly cold winds and driving rains.

These seven tiny souls should have been with their mothers but instead, they sat huddled together on the cold metal floor of the trailer. They were soaking wet, bewildered, terrified and no doubt freezing cold. This miserable sight absolutely broke my heart because if their journey wasn’t brutal enough, what awaited them was even worse……..although at the time, I did not know their fate.

My decision to become a vegan was simply about my ethical reasoning that I no longer wanted to contribute to the needless slaughter, exploitation or torture of any animal. All animals feel love, happiness, joy, fear, pain and terror and they are not on this earth for humans to eat, abuse, torture or experiment on.

The change to veganism was not easy as overnight I went completely meat, seafood, poultry, honey and dairy free but my decision to change was entirely about the lives of all animals. Sure, I have slipped up on a couple of occasions by assuming something didn’t have dairy or fish sauce in it but education is the key and I am so willing to learn all I can.

I do not ascribe to vegetarianism! Vegans and vegetarians are polar opposites. Vegetarians consume dairy (which includes eggs) and the dairy industry is one of the cruelest of all with the chicken and egg industry not far behind. And if you think you can’t live without milk, cheese or yogurt (and eggs) then please watch Milked and more importantly the documentaries COW and COWSPIRICY.

All in all I have found my vegan journey heartwarming and the vegan community to be kind and generous. They have sites offering wonderfully flavoursome plant based recipes, tips, information and they publish inspiration, love and hope for the ethical treatment of all animals. I actually don’t miss any kind of animal product and although eating out can sometimes be a disappointment, if that is the worst I can experience then bring it. On the upside I feel great, my skin looks amazing, I can still enjoy my dirty chai’s and dark chocolate and I am shitting like an absolute champion 🙂

I became a vegan because I love all animals, because I care deeply about our environment and because kindness and love matters above all else. My happiness comes from living my life in line with my beliefs and in turn, my heart is grateful and full…… x

What happened to the baby calves in the trailer……..

The flesh of those seven little souls became veal! As soon as calves are born they are taken from their mothers. From a couple of hours old to the age of five days old, male calves are sent to a saleyard then on to an abattoir where they are inhumanely slaughtered to become veal.

Slink veal is where stillborn or unborn calves are collected from cows that are pregnant when slaughtered. That is correct, once the use by date of a dairy cow is up, they are also sent to slaughterhouses. A cow should live for 20 years plus but the lifespan of a dairy cow is around 5 years and in her time she has been continually impregnated with each of her calves being taken from her.

At dairy farms, when a calf is born it is immediately separated from its mother. Can you imagine the utter grief, trauma and heartbreak every mother cow and baby calf experiences. Cruelty truly does exist at every single dairy farm.

Good morning 2023. How lovely to see you….. :)

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It is the fifth week of summer and the start of a brand new year. After months of unseasonal rain and cool temperatures, the heat we know and love has finally hit South Australia with the mercury reaching the low 40’s. Up early, I watered my fruit trees which have survived two SA summers under siege of blistering heat and hot dry winds. This year, the trees flowered and tiny fruit has appeared in the shape of pears, sugar plums, blueberries, figs and pomegranates along with a trellis filled with thick skinned passionfruit.

This was a lovely morning of solitude, stillness and space. As the church bells pealed in the buttressed tower of our towns 165 year old church, a magnificent wedge-tail eagle began circling above my yard and that of my neighbour. On majestic wings, she glided between our homes and the wildlife corridor which runs parallel to us before finally being seen off by our resident, very brave little kestrel. What an amazingly privileged way to begin the day and a gentle reminder life is never dull……nor predictable!

After witnessing our kestrel and wedgetail, I thought of the year passed and the one ahead. No ‘new year’s resolutions’ again this year but an intent to continue to be kind, to have those around who deserve a seat at my table and to give 2023 all I got with as much optimism, love and hope as I can muster.

The start of 2023 looks like skies of pale washed denim, smells like hot dry wheat, tastes like fresh Queensland mangoes and feels like good omens and late afternoon ocean swims. Happy New Year…….x

Well hello again…….

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Where are your stories oceangirl, why aren’t you blogging, are you okay, Hey!, are you still around and other odd messages…..

I cannot believe my last post was June 2021! My absence it seems, has been conspicuous. I love writing my blog so I really don’t know why I haven’t blogged for such a long time. I did try on numerous occasions. It just didn’t come. It is as simple as that. Thank you for sending your messages. I am so appreciative of your care and concern x.

Now. To the task of catching up……..

The apex of privilege is that over the past few months I have ever so slowly learnt to give myself permission to just be. To lay in bed a little longer, to leave cat hair on the couch because it is after all my dear companions home too and to watch the night sky for what seems like hours because there is no reason for me to be inside watching TV except when Gardening Australia is on 🙂

I am no longer striving for unattainable perfection and I have set boundaries. No expectations, just gratitude.

Much has happened since my last post. There have been some life changes, good and difficult. Good people – such good people, happiness, sadness, inspired travel and more. My life is taking a gentler pace and I have let go of things that no longer serve me well.

My dear little gardening companion Zoe has passed. She made it to the wonderful age of 20 cat years which is the equivalent of 96 human years. Writing of her makes my heart turn to dust but then I remind myself that the grief felt for Zoe Clementine is born of love. Grief can be so varied and often it is not what we expect especially when it wraps around your heart like a fist. What an honour it was to have you as our lovely little companion for just over 14 years.

Zoe’s passing was gut wrenching but peaceful. Her little body was beginning to shut down and as much as it was heartbreaking, letting her go was the kindest thing. She went to sleep in my arms for the last time and for that privilege alone, we are grateful beyond words.

What a wonderful, tenacious, sweet, clever little cat she was. A great traveller and true adventurer along with being a voracious consumer of prawns and a lover of mature cheese. A delicate little cat with the biggest fighting spirit who adored being out in the enclosed vegie patch sunbathing regardless the temperature. Zoe was a little pocket rocket who had pretty much used up most of her 9 lives, she loved a chin rub and a gentle brushing and she loved nothing more than snuggling up. She could, when the mood took her, behave like a feline possessed, she could hold a grudge and she hated having her nail clipped. If cats had accents, Zoe’s would have certainly been French given her delicate features and jewel green eyes. She knew she was so loved and she will be missed for a very very long time……

The house is still a work in progress. More cracks appear in these old walls and the remaining ceiling of plaster and horse hair are sagging but I have a sturdy roof over my head. The garden is peaceful, lovely and continuing its transformation and the yields it offers up are fresh, nourishing and beautiful. The garden puts food on the table and fills vintage and hand-thrown pottery vases with beauty and that makes me happy.

Tom Tom and Boo (Thomas and George), those two wonderful furry beings are the best boys ever and love bugs personified, I became a vegan since my last blog post – I could never go vegan said every vegan before becoming vegan 🙂 and there has been some wonderful travel. All in all, everything is pretty okay in my little part of the world.

I don’t have it all figured out, I don’t think any of us are meant to but I noodle along regardless. Just one foot in front of the other and the path becomes more evident. I may not always know where I am going but no doubt I am getting to where I am meant to be.

None of us ever really know how the story will end but where was I in June 2021! Thats right. I was part way through writing about Robe…..x